Not only in house building, but also in 3D printing, the "subsurface" is often crucial for the quality of the 3D object. The choice of the best print bed depends on various parameters such as the filament and print settings. This article provides a clear summary and explanation of important aspects.
What is a 3D printer print bed?
A 3D printer print bed is also often called a print plate or build plate and refers to the surface on which a 3D object is printed. There are different types of 3D printer plates, which are recommended depending on the type of filament. The 3D print detaches from the print bed, ideally after the object is finished. If it detaches prematurely, this can be due to the temperature of the heated bed, the print bed, or the choice of filament. There is also the challenge that the object cannot be detached from the print bed (even after cooling). To prevent this, various parameters such as filament type, print settings, and print bed material must be considered.
3D print beds are an important part of the 3D printer, as a stable and flat surface is crucial for a high-quality 3D print.
The types of 3D print beds – based on print surface materials
Below, we present a selection of the following print beds: PEI, glass print bed, PEX print bed, G10/FR4, PC print bed, acrylic print bed.
PEI Print Bed
The PEI print bed is a build plate coated with polyetherimide (heat-resistant), offering particularly high adhesion.
PEI is currently the most widespread and common print bed for 3D printing, especially in modern 3D printers, but it is not the only option.
Advantage: high adhesion and easy release
Disadvantage: easily damaged by incorrect use, expensive
Application:
- Level the print bed: Very important for a good first layer
-
Set the correct temperature:
a. PLA 3D Filament: approx. 50–60 °C
b. PETG: approx. 70–85 °C
- Pay attention to the first layer: Not too close (can damage PEI), not too far (poor adhesion)
- Allow to cool after printing: Parts often detach automatically
- Slightly bend the flexible plate (if available): Print jumps off
There are two types of PEI print beds:
Smooth PEI
Smooth PEI offers a very smooth surface, strong adhesion, and a clean, glossy underside of the 3D object. It is perfect for visually smooth prints and is particularly suitable for PLA filament and ABS 3D filament. However, it must be noted that it is relatively sensitive.
Textured PEI
Textured PEI is a 3D print bed that is powder-coated, offering very secure adhesion. The underside of the object appears somewhat rougher, more matte, but still uniform. Adhesion here is very reliable.
Glass Print Bed
A glass print bed is made of tempered glass and is either self-heating or placed on a heated print bed. It is considered very stable, smooth, and flat, making it perfect for a precise first layer.
Advantage: smooth underside of the object, uniform adhesion, easy cleaning, robust
Disadvantage: low adhesion without aids, relatively heavy
Application:
Properly level the print bed: Glass is flat, but the distance to the nozzle must be exact
Preheat:
- PLA Filament: approx. 50–60 °C
- PETG: approx. 70–85 °C
- ABS: approx. 90–110 °C
Optionally use adhesive:
- Glue stick, hairspray or special adhesive sprays improve adhesion
Carefully set the first layer: A good "first layer" is crucial
Allow to cool: After printing, many parts detach more easily
PEX Print Bed
The PEX print bed is often referred to as an upgrade from PEI build plates. It is also a polymer coating and offers optimized adhesion control.
Advantage: high temperature resistance, smooth surface, perfect adhesion, chemically resistant
Disadvantage: very expensive, not yet as widespread (fewer accessories, experience)
Application:
Clean leveling: Crucial, as with all print beds
Set temperature:
- PLA: approx. 50–60 °C
- PETG: approx. 70–85 °C
- ABS: approx. 90–110 °C
Set first layer cleanly:
- Not too close (can damage the surface)
- Not too far (adhesion problems)
Allow to cool after printing: Parts usually detach by themselves
Bend the flexible plate (if available): Makes removal easier
G10 / FR4 (Garolite)
This print bed is made of fiberglass-reinforced epoxy resin and is often clamped to the heated bed. G10/FR4 print beds have good mechanical adhesion due to their slightly rough surface.
Advantage: very robust, durable, perfect adhesion for nylon, usually no adhesive required.
Disadvantage: rough surface, dust and fibers can stick, prints difficult to remove if used incorrectly.
Application:
Mounting:
- Place or fix the plate on the heated bed (clamps/adhesive film)
Leveling:
- Correctly set the distance to the nozzle
Temperatures:
- PLA: approx. 50–60 °C
- PETG: approx. 70–85 °C
- Nylon: approx. 80–110 °C (depending on type)
First layer:
- Press lightly, but not too hard
Allow to cool:
- Prints often detach more easily after cooling
PC Print Bed
The surface of a PC print bed is made of polycarbonate and is a popular alternative to glass plates and PEI print beds.
Advantage: good adhesion (especially for ABS filament and PC filaments).
Disadvantage: difficult removal due to strong adhesion, not as durable, somewhat sensitive.
Application:
Leveling:
- Exact nozzle distance is important to avoid damage
Temperatures:
- PLA: approx. 50–60 °C
- PETG: approx. 70–85 °C
- ABS: approx. 90–110 °C
- PC: approx. 100–120 °C
First layer:
- Do not print too close (can "burn in")
Allow to cool after printing:
- Parts detach more easily
Optional:
- Use a release layer (e.g., glue stick) if adhesion is too strong
Acrylic Print Bed
Acrylic build plates were occasionally used in early DIY 3D printers, but due to their limited heat resistance and durability, they are rarely used in modern 3D printers. However, for those who want to build with a minimal budget, this is still an option.
Vorteil: glatte Oberfläche, leicht zuschneidbar, gute Haftung bei PLA 3D Filament, günstig, leicht verfügbar.
Nachteil: nicht hitzebeständig, ohne Hilfsmittel schlechte Haftung, nicht geeignet für ABS, kratzempfindlich, geringe Lebensdauer.
Anwendung:
Nur begrenzt beheizen:
- PLA: max. ca. 50–60 °C
- Für höhere Temperaturen ungeeignet
Leveling:
- Vorsichtig einstellen, da Acryl sich leicht verzieht
Haftmittel verwenden:
- Klebestift oder Tape empfohlen
Erste Schicht moderat einstellen:
- Nicht zu nah (Kratzergefahr)
Druck vorsichtig entfernen:
- Nicht hebeln → Bruchgefahr
Auswahl der besten 3D-Druckplatte basierend auf den verwendeten 3D-Druckmaterialien
Ein wichtiger Punkt bei der Wahl der Bauplatte ist das verwendete Filament. Bestimmte 3D Druck Filamente können auf bestimmten 3D Drucker-Platten gedruckt werden, während manche Filamente auf bestimmten 3D Drucker Druckplatten nur schwer gedruckt werden können, da sich der 3D Druck frühzeitig oder nur schwer vom Druckbett löst.
| Materialgruppe | Beste Druckplatte | Hinweise |
| PLA, TPU | Glattes PEI | Sehr gute Haftung, glatte Unterseite, TPU gut kontrollierbar |
| PETG, ABS, ASA | Strukturiertes PEI | PETG haftet nicht zu stark, ABS/ASA weniger Warping |
| Nylon, PC | Aluminium + Spezialfilm | Sehr temperaturstabil, Film sorgt für nötige Haftung |
| Gemischt (alle) | Beidseitige PEI-Druckplatte | Flexibel: glatte + strukturierte Seite für alle Materialien |
Glattes PEI eignet sich für Drucke, die glatt und sauber sein sollen (PLA Filament, TPU). Strukturiertes PEI eignet sich für technische, robuste Drucke. Alu und Spezialfilm sind geeignet für High-End-Lösungen wie Nylon und PC, da eine sehr gute Haftungskontrolle besteht.
Fazit
Je nach verwendetem Filament sollte die passende Bauplatte des 3D-Druckers verwendet werden. Glatte PEI-Bauplatten eignen sich besonders für optisch hochwertige Drucke. Steht jedoch eine gute Haftung und zuverlässige Betthaftung im Vordergrund, sollten Bauplatten wie beispielsweise strukturiertes PEI verwendet werden. Für spezielle Anwendungen können je nach Materialanforderungen auch PEX- oder Glas-Bauplatten zum Einsatz kommen. Wichtig ist außerdem, die Heizbett- und Druckeinstellungen entsprechend anzupassen, um optimale Druckergebnisse zu erzielen.