Fortunately, we can refer to 3DSage’s unique method of getting a beautiful look without using sandpaper.He printed a model of the skeleton as a demonstration. All you need is a can of spray paint that combines well with plastic (such as Rust-Oleum) and a bottle of Fast Drying Polyurethane – Clear Satin. Let’s get started!

The first step is to check whether there is dirt or dust on the 3D printed model and make sure there is nothing superfluous on the surface.Apply a spray paint of your choice to the model, followed by a quick coat of polyurethane.

Next, to make the coating dry faster and prevent drips, you should carefully place the model under the fan.At this point you can see that the mixture of paint and polyurethane will blend into the layer, making up for any holes or unexpected imperfections and working best with thin layers and patience.3DSage said he waited for a whole day before adding the final coat of spray paint.And the time interval between layers is 20 minutes in order to prevent discoloration and make up for defects.

When it comes to the benefits of his craft, The Maker says it allows him to print faster with a greater layer thickness.This process will mask any rough and unsightly appearance.And you can choose any color of paint.In this way,you get a smooth print model that doesn’t require polishing or other post-processing techniques.

Whereas 3D printers using the same technology and marketed for about the same price usually do not vary much(theoretically) in terms of print quality, the results of post-processing can vary greatly depending on your expertise and skills. Simply put, you take either 100 percent blame or credit for your finished 3D prints.

So, what processes are involved in post-processing?

•Cleaning

In FDM, cleaning usually means to remove support structures from the object.

As we know, there are two types of support material: soluble and insoluble. Insoluble material is relatively strong and can only be removed with a spatula,knife or sheer brute force,leaving the model and print platform vulnerable from possible damage.

If you are lucky enough to own a dual extrusion setup, you may want to use soluble material for your supports. Soluble materials such as HIPS and PVA, can be dissolved in water or Limonene.

Check out our previous blog on how set up your 2 extruder 3D printer.

•Fixing

One way to circumvent supports is to have your model printed separately. This means you will have to manually attach together your parts. ABS prints can be welded or glued together using acetone. Here is a tip you should heed: when creating joints or keys for a model, make sure to create joining features large enough for the 3D printer to create them cleanly. Thumb of rule is that features should be larger than 4-5mm in diameter. Glued components should be secured together using rubber bands, and cyanoacrylate glue should be used to spot glue around the connecting areas. If seams are rough or have gaps, bondo or filler can be used to smoothen them.

•Surface finishing

Sanding

Layer lines are the bane of models printed using FDM technology. Carefully sanding the surface of the model with paper should get rid of the lines. This process requires delicate skills and great attention. Start with higher grit to lower as you go. Do not sand in one place for too long as friction-generated heat could melt the material. The downside to manual sanding is inconsistent results, as well as being laborious.

Smoothing

To give the print a glossy finish, chemicals are sometimes used. For example, Acetone and THF are used to smoothen the surfaces of objects printed with PLA and ABS. The problem with this technique is that it can not be controlled: sometimes features are melted off that should remain. On top of that, vapours can be harmful when inhaled.This can be avoided using closed chemical cleaning machines.

•Coloring

Coating and Painting

Surface finishing is often followed by painting. Parts need colouring would ideally be printed using white material. A layer of primer is usually applied before the model is painted,followed by another stage of sanding. Painting is usually done manually using a brush or spray(at an arms length). It is highly recommended that you hang the object in an open, dust-free,well ventilated space. This will allow you to paint all surfaces evenly without having to handle the model while paint is drying. The painted object should be ready to polish after 1-2 days.

Credit: beamler, 3der

Flexible filaments

As the name indicates these more flexible than any other filaments. Due to flexibility these are soft and can be molded into any shape and size with ease.

Pro Series Flex

The filament is the one among TPE which is popular for its elasticity and flexibility and behaves like a real rubber which can bend and mold in any shape and size easily. Therefore, these are made of tightest tolerance with high precision for3D printing. The filament can be best experienced with slower print speeds to avoid filament binding in the extruder.
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 Advantages/properties

• The filament is like a soft rubber making it more flexible and elastic than the popular PLA and ABS filaments
• The filament is good for high-quality objects with large objects because it bonds well between layers
• The heated bed is not needed and it is a durable material with little shrinkage while cooling.

Disadvantages/Issues 

• The printer should be modified otherwise can extrude from the nozzle inconsistency due to its flexible property.
• Hence, needs experienced hands for printing the filament is not for beginners
• For optimal performance the printer nozzle needs fine-tuning.

Applications

• Stoppers, belts, caps, phone cases, bumpers and more can be made from this filament due to its 2 important properties.
• The filament can be used in various fields due to its flexible nature i.e., home appliances, automotive, medical, electrical insulation, weather seals for windows and doors, Kid’s toys and wearable’s and soles of the footwear.

Price Starting from : $30 to $ 50 for 1.75mm/1kg spool

Extrusion Temperature: Vary between 220 to 230 °C.

TPE

This filament is well-know for its flexibility and elasticity. Also helpful in the making of extremely flexible 3D printer material that will have the properties of soft rubber. As the name the Thermoplastic elastomers the filament is superbly flexible and elastic. The less infill you use, the more flexible your finished print will be.
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 Advantages/properties

• Great to use with most of the FDM filaments.
• The filament is like a soft rubber making it more flexible and elastic than the popular PLA and ABS filaments,
• Good for high-quality objects(bonds well between layers).
• The heated bed is not needed.
• Hence, it is a durable material with little shrinkage while cooling.

Disadvantages/Issues

• The printer should be modified otherwise can extrude from the nozzle inconsistency due to its flexible property.
• Hence, needs experienced hands for printing the filament is not for beginners
• For optimal performance the printer nozzle needs fine-tuning.

Applications

• Stoppers, belts, caps, phone cases, bumpers and more can be made from this filament due to its 2 important properties.
• The filament can be used in various fields due to its flexible nature i.e., home appliances, automotive, medical, electrical insulation, weather seals for windows and doors, Kid’s toys and wearable’s and soles of the footwear.

Price Starting from : $30 to $ 50 for 1.75mm/1kg spool

Extrusion Temperature: Vary between 225 to 235 °C.

PCTPE

Plasticized Copolyamide TPE is the combination of synthetic polymer Nylon and flexible filament TPE. Due to the mixture of these 2 filaments the properties and settings are almost the same. Synthetic fabrics are used to dye your prints of any color.

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 Advantages/properties

• Nylon makes it easy to print.
• Flexible like TPE and can be dyed into any color due to Nylon.
• Can work better in critical setup
• Low shrinkage

Disadvantages/Issues

• The filament needs to be dyed in various colors that require an extra step, consumes more time and highly expensive.
• Difficult to print needs experienced hands.
• While printing may lead to blobs and stringing
• Not good with Bowden extruders
• Poor bridging characteristics

Applications

• The main applications are, helps in printing cosplay armor, phone enclosures, and industrial parts.

Price Starting from : $30 for 1.75mm/1kg spool

Extrusion Temperature: Vary between 235 to 245 °C.

Soft PLA

The Soft PLA has similar characteristics as that of normal PLA with one unique property that is flexible like rubber. Due to this it is also, called “Flexible PLA“. Hence, it is compatible with all the 3D printers.
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Advantages/properties

• Soft PLA is flexible, rubbery, elastic and has impact resistance.
• Hence, it acts like a biodegradable PLA due to its low carbon footprints.
• Therefore, it has good vibration dampening characteristics.

Disadvantages/Issues

• It creates clogging, bubbling, and bunching in the nozzle while printing.
• Can’t shape in the desired form due to extremely adhesive nature.
• Hence, need to slow down the printing speed for best results
• A direct extruder is required for the smooth journey of the filament to the bed.
• Not good for objects with more gaps and overhangs.

Applications

• Best for stoppers, belts, caps, phone cases, bumpers and more.
• Unique ergonomic nature helps in printing pen grips, shoe sole inserts.
• The materials which need to be strong such has tires, cell phone covers, and other things with flexible in nature.

Price Starting from : $30 for 1.75mm/1kg spool

Extrusion Temperature: Vary between 220 to 230°C.

TPU

Thermoplastic Polyurethane is the filament that belongs to the class of polyurethane that has unique properties namely elasticity, transparency, and resistance to grease, oil, and abrasion with a shore hardness of 95A. There are various types of TPU namely polyester TPU used to resist oil and hydrocarbons, polyether TPU used in wet environments, and polycaprolactone TPU performs with low-temperature and comparatively more resistant to hydrolysis.
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Advantages/properties

• Resistant to oil, grease, and abrasion.
• Printed parts have low-temperature resistants
• Ease to work
• With the right settings, there will be no curling or delamination.
• Excellent layer to layer adhesion.
• No warping issues.

Disadvantages/Issues

• It creates clogging, bubbling, and bunching in the nozzle while printing.
• A well-polished and smooth look can’t be obtained.
• We need to slow down the printing speed for the results.
• Hence, it doesn’t dissolve in simple chemicals.

Applications

• Best for stoppers, belts, caps, phone cases, bumpers and more.
• Used in automotive instrument panels, caster wheels, power tools, sporting goods, medical devices, drive belts, footwear, inflatable rafts, and a variety of extruded film, sheet, and profile applications.
• The materials which need to be strong such has cell phone covers and other things with flexible in nature.
• Therefore, it helps in the outer casing of antennas for efficient performance even after many wash cycles.

Price Starting from : $30 for 1.75mm/1kg spool

Extrusion Temperature: Vary between 220 to 250°C.

Composite filaments

These are the filaments made up of 2 or more individual components whose combined physical strength exceeds their individual properties as per the name.

Laybrick

Lay-Brick is the 3D material that almost as similar features as LAYWOOD-D3,  Kai Parthy is the inventor of these 2 filaments which are quite amazing, the filament is rough apart from that gives a look and feel of grey stone retaining the flexibility and elasticity of the plastic. The filament should be used with maxi-sized 3D printers. Therefore, it gives the ” Non-plastic look“. The temperature above 210°C the filament produces rough and sandstone result otherwise it will produce a smoother finish.
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Advantages/properties

• The filament is stiff and brittle in nature
• Gives sandstone look rather than plastic
• No warping
• No heated bed required
• Get a different variety of textures depending on the extruder temperature.

Disadvantages/Issues

• Temperature above 210 makes the print rough.

Applications

• Best for landscape and architectural designs.
• Fux-stone, model train scenery can be printed with this filament.

Price Starting from : $40 for 1.75mm/1kg spool

Extrusion Temperature: Vary between 165 to 190°C.

Wooden PLA

The wood filament is a fusion of standard PLA and finely powered wood materials that provide the print with the natural texture of wood. The mixture may contain bamboo, cork, wood dust, and other wooden by-products,  come in the ratio of 70:30 of PLA and wood. Therefore, best used with desktop 3D printers that provide the wooden-like finish. They are various types of wood filaments namely LAYWOO-D3, ColorFabb’s Woodfill series, and Timberfill.
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Advantages/properties

• The natural look of wood and a biodegradable filament
• Similar PLA properties
• Different extruder temperature provide different colors, hotter the darker
• No warp and shrink
• Less abrasive compared to other composite filaments.
• Therefore, as pleasant wood-like smell.

Disadvantages/Issues

• Less strength than natural wood.
• Hence, it is inflexible and brittle makes PLA better filament
• Easily breakable material
• There should not be any sharp turns while working with the filament.

Applications

• Best for landscape and architectural designs.
• Fux-stone, model train scenery can be printed with this filament.
• Wood burns when exposed to high temperature
• Filaments are more expensive than PLA
• Use large-sized nozzles to reduce wear and tear.

Price Starting from : $25 for 1.75mm/1kg spool

Extrusion Temperature: Vary between 220 to 250°C.

Conductive filament

The filament is modified PLA with a conductive carbon particulate with low voltage and low current circuitry not being that technical. The filament helps in making smaller circuit boards on the printer bed. These filaments may consist of sensors and some LEDs( Light-emitting diode). The filament is present for both PLA and ABS users. As the name, it has a conductive nature. Hence, works well with all the 3D printers.

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Advantages/properties

• More flexible than the PLA
• Conductive in nature with small power circuitry.
• No heated bed is required but gives better results with it.

Disadvantages/Issues

• As less layer adhesion
• The filament is more expensive
• Less flexible and durable compared to PLA
• Repeated binding may break the material and shrinks during cooling.

Applications

• Most of its applications may come in the field of electronics i.e., small circuit boards.
• Best for functional prototypes, integrated circuits and electronic components like sensors, LED, and low voltage projects
• Best for Arduino projects.

Price Starting from : $17.99 for 1.75mm/1kg spool

Extrusion Temperature: Vary between 215 to 230°C.

Lay ceramic

As the name gives ceramic or clay finish to the print. The filament has similar properties that of the natural clay when burned and glazed provides strength and gives the elegant look to the object. While using this filament requires extra settings or additional upgrades to the printer for a better print.

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Advantages/properties

• The filament is durable and brittle in its nature
• Can be fired in the kiln to get that ceramic look and can apply glaze
• The Kiln can take the filament to make more amazing objects

Disadvantages/Issues

• Takes more time to heat and cool
• The printed objects are hard in nature
• More expensive

Applications

• Therefore, best used for making mugs, flower pots, model roofing tiles, ashtrays, sculptures, or pottery.

Price Starting from : $200 for 3.mm/1kg

Extrusion Temperature: Vary between 265 to 275°C.

Carbon Fiber Reinforced PLA

As the name, the filament is a mixture of PLA and small carbon fiber strands, designed to fit through the nozzle easily. The carbon contained in the filament provides more rigidity and enhances the structural support to the object to be printed. The 3D printer user who requires stiff and rocky like nature of the objects can use this filament. Drone builders and RC Hobbyists may fall in love with this filament.

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Advantages/properties

• No warp and excellent layer adhesion property
• Provides better print quality and no heated bed is required
• High strength, durable, ductile and stiff
• Little string during the cooling process

Disadvantages/Issues

• Not flexible in nature
• Contains abrasive strands
• Wear and tear of printer nozzles more with brass
• Requires investment in a printer nozzle

Applications

• Drone bodies, propellers, and RC car frames can be made with great ease.
• Frames, supports, and tools can also be made,
• Various materials like protective casing, mechanical parts, and highly durable objects can be formed.

Price Starting from : $60 for 1.75mm/1kg

Extrusion Temperature: Vary between 190 to 230°C.

ColorFabb BrassFill, CopperFill, and BronzeFill

The filament is metal combined with PLA gives absolutely the metal finish look. Therefore, these are tougher to print than MH build PLA filaments, due to metal integrated with plastic prints are heavier but are more authentic in nature. The objects printed can be polished, painted, and sanded that gives a beautiful, unique and elegant look even unpolished objects are classy, matte, with a dull appearance and dusky look amaze people. Therefore, what’s in your mind that can be a desired outcome when polished. The temperature can reach to 14oo °C or above.

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Advantages/properties

• An aesthetically appealing metal finish.
• Therefore, no heated bed is required.
• Heavier than other filaments due to its metallic nature.
• High durable and strength
• Hence, no, shrink while cooling

Disadvantages/Issues

• Expensive filament
• Therefore, require a wear-resistant nozzle
• Printed parts are very brittle in nature.
• Very poor overhangs and bridging property.
• Over-time partial clogging can be seen.
• Heavy objects when printed with it.
• To obtain a smooth finish need to rock tumbling, polishing, or wet sanding needs to be done.

Applications

• Used for cosmetic prints of busts, jewelry, or sculptures.
• Perfect for printing props, costumes, figurines, and robots.
• The filament can also be used by designers as well other than hobbyists looking to make faux metal prints.
• Replicas for Museums
• Best for hardware products.

Price Starting from : $25 to 50 for 1.75mm/1kg

Extrusion Temperature: Vary between 190 to 220°C.

Proto-Pasta Stainless Steel and ColorFabb SteelFill

The filament is a mixture of the steel strands and PLA, thus these are tougher than the MH build filament. Even these can be sanded and painted to get a better look like the above filaments even with an unpolished look the prints get the cast metal from the mold. Therefore, it has high abrasion to brass nozzle you will need to install a hardened steel nozzle before printing. They print like PLA but slower than PLA.

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Advantages/properties

• An aesthetically appealing steel finish.
• Therefore, no heated bed is required.
• Heavier than other filaments due to its metallic nature.
• High durable and strength
• Hence, no, shrink while cooling

Disadvantages/Issues

• Expensive filament
• Printed parts are very brittle in nature.
• Very poor overhangs and bridging property.
• Over-time partial clogging can be seen.
• Heavy objects when printed with it.
• To obtain a smooth finish need to rock tumbling, polishing, or wet sanding needs to be done.
• Not easy to print with for the inexperienced

Applications

• Used for cosmetic prints of busts, jewelry, or sculptures.
• Perfect for printing props, costumes, figurines, and robots.
• The filament can also be used by designers as well other than hobbyists looking to make faux metal prints.
• Replicas for Museums

Price Starting from : $25 to 50 for 1.75mm/1kg

Extrusion Temperature: Vary between 200 to 220°C.

Magnetic Iron PLA

As the name, it has all the magnetic properties as that of the magnet. The filament is a mixture of standard filaments and iron powered due to which magnetics stick to the filament and provide a dusty and gunmetal look to the printed objects. The temperature needs to be 10-20 degrees lesser than what is required for the MH build PLA filament. To get a rusty look you need to spray several times the mixture of hydrogen peroxide of 16oz, the vinegar of 20oz and 1Tbs of salt let it dry and you will get the desired look.

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Advantages/properties

• It provides a rusty and worn look to any print.
• Therefore, no, shrink while cooling
• Extremely durable and has great strength
• The filament is not soluble in nature.
• Hard and heavy prints can be achieved.

Disadvantages/Issues

• Expensive filament
• Due to high abrasion needs to install hardened steel nozzle.
• Heavy objects when printed with it.
• To obtain a smooth finish need to rock tumbling, polishing, or wet sanding needs to be done.
• Hence, not easy to print with it for inexperienced

Applications

• Used for cosmetic prints of busts, accessories, or aged-metal props.
• Therefore, best used for various DIY projects, sensors, and educational tools, etc.
• Home uses it is just like a novelty material.

Price Starting from : $70 for 1.75mm/1kg

Extrusion Temperature: Vary between 195 to 220°C.

PORO-LAY Series

The filament is made from a rubber-elastomeric polymer and a PVA-component. Therefore, there are various types of filaments namely Lay-Felt, Gel-Lay, and Lay-Fomm 40 and 60. These filaments can be characterized as highly porous and flexible filaments.

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Advantages/properties

• These filaments are highly flexible and porous in nature
• Also, have a sponge, jelly, foamy and soft in nature.
• When soaked in water dissolves PVA material and left with the rubber-elastomer.
• Unique and experimental uses.
• Lightweight objects even they are large in size.

Disadvantages/Issues

• Printed objects will be soft and sponge in nature.
• Not used for hard and stiff prints
• Hardware components can not be printed
• Expensive filament.

Applications

• Therefore, best used in filters, permeable membranes, jellyfish models, stamps, or intricate sponges depending on the material.
• Can be used in making of artificial paper and future cloths
• Used for the rubber-like, sponge in nature applications such as ink-reservoirs, bio-cells, micro-foam, and elastics.
• Also used for tissue and orientated objects making.

Price Starting from : $160 for 1.75mm/1kg

Extrusion Temperature: Vary between 220 to 230°C.

Specialty filaments

Like the name, these are special kinds of filaments. Now let’s look at the various types of specialty filaments and their special features.

Polycarbonate(PC)

The filament is more strong, impact and highly resistant in nature. Polycarbonate is a tough and highly durable thermoplastic.

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Advantages/properties

• Hence, very resistant to any temperature
• It is flexible and can bend without crack
• Transparent in nature
• No soluble

Disadvantages/Issues

• Should store in a dry place
• Above all not for food components
• Expensive than standard filaments.

Applications

• Most commonly used in RC parts or drone parts.
• Therefore, it can be used in applications related to electrical, mechanical, or automotive components.
• Due to its optical clarity can be used in lighting projects or for screens.

Price Starting from : $120  for 1.75mm/1kg

Extrusion Temperature: Vary between 210 to 290°C.

Bendlay

The filament as exciting new features and that is extremely translucent and flexible in nature. Hence, 91% of light passes through the filament. Therefore, it is also flexible and elastic. The other modified version of it is Butadiene.

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Advantages/properties

• Flexible, transparent and provides strength to the material.
• Absorbs less water compared to ABS
• Food safe
• High interlayer adhesion
• Less warping
• Unbreakable and easy to print

Disadvantages/Issues

• Acetone will make it crushy.
• Suffer from whitening when bend.
• Harder than ABS

Applications

• Best used in food packing and food industry.
• Best used ornate cups, containers, or translucent objects.
• Therefore, it can also be used in medical devices.
• Hence, it can be used in the making of containers and utensils.

Price Starting from : $100  for 1.75mm/1kg

Extrusion Temperature: Vary between 225 to 245°C.

Moldlay

As the name, it is mainly used for molding which as wax-like properties. The filament is stiff and rigid at the room temperature when heated with 170 10 180 degrees starts to extrude. The prints can be made not only for permanent mold but also for lost wax molding purposes. Therefore print takes the long process usually in the traditional form but thanks to Moldlay it consumes time.

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Advantages/properties

• No warping
• No heated bed required
• Easy to print
• Inexpensive to print the objects

Disadvantages/Issues

• Softer than any other filament
• Feed gear may not work
• Melted wax is runny in nature so won’t deposit correctly

Applications

• Therefore, it can be used for molding purpose
• Designed for silicone molding or completely vaporizing for investment casting.

Price Starting from : $80  for 1.75mm/1kg

Extrusion Temperature: Vary between 175 to 195°C.

Continuous Fiber 

Continuous fiber filaments are designed for the ready to use products other than most 3D printing materials are meant for rapid prototyping and testing models.

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Advantages/properties

• Strong, durable and ready to take abuse.
• When comes in contact with a strong base filament like Nylon with Continuous fiber provide a professional and beautiful finish

Applications

• Best used for production parts, drone bodies, or even manufacturing molds.

Price Starting from : $50 to $100  for 1.75mm/1kg

Extrusion Temperature: Vary between 245 to 265°C.

Support filaments

These filaments are water-soluble and also act as support filaments with other filaments while using dual extruders. Support filaments are necessary to obtain the best prints or prefect without any overhangs.

PVA filament

The filament is a well-known support material when printing with ABS or PLA filament. The full name of PVA filament is Polyvinyl Alcohol. The filament is transparent with slightly yellow in color and most often used with dual extrusion printers one with the primary material and on the other hand, this dissolve filament provides support to avoid overhangs.

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Advantages/properties

• Acts as a support material
• Biodegradable, durable and non-toxic
• Water-soluble
• Best with PLA due to similar heating temperatures
• Difficult printing makes easy

Disadvantages/Issues

• Dissolves in water easily
• Should be kept in a dry place
• Expensive material than other filaments.

Applications

• Best used for models with internal supports or supports for incredibly detailed models with many overhangs.
• It can be used in thickener in paper adhesives, in personal hygiene products, as a mold-release agent, kid’s putty, and freshwater fishing products.

Price Starting from : $80  for 1.75mm/1kg

Extrusion Temperature: Vary between 190 to 220°C.

HIPS

High Impact Polystyrene is similar to ABS and best support material. It is bright, white and biodegradable in nature. It also acts as secondary as that of PVA and liquid hydrocarbon dissolves the filament as soon as possible. The filament is well dissolved in limonene.

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Advantages/properties

• Acts as a support material
• Biodegradable, durable and non-toxic
• Best with ABS

Disadvantages/Issues

• A heated bed is required without it difficult to print.
• Common issue while printing is curling and adhesion.

Applications

• Used for models with internal supports or supports for models with many overhangs.
• The food industry uses for packing, medicinal trays, signs, all kinds of kid’s toys, and much more.
• The filament can be manipulated in many ways as required.

Price Starting from : $25  for 1.75mm/1kg

Extrusion Temperature: Vary between 220 to 250°C.

LAYaPVA

The filament is a support material that quickly dissolves in water. And as best viscosity when heated at a temperature of 230-degrees. Of the LAY-AWAY Support Series, LAYaPVA dissolves the fastest.

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Advantages/properties

• Therefore, it is stiff and water-soluble
• Act as support material
• Dissolves quicker than normal PVA

Disadvantages/Issues

• Dissolves in water easily
• Should be kept in a dry place
• Expensive material than other filaments

Applications

• Therefore, best used for models with internal supports or supports for incredibly detailed models with many overhangs.

Price Starting from : $160 for 1.75mm/1kg

Extrusion Temperature: Vary between 220 to 250°C.

LAY-CLOUD

Hence, the best support material for flexible filaments and when overexposed to water it becomes gelly and soft. Therefore, when heated with a 240-degree temperature to achieve the best viscosity.

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Advantages/properties

• The filament is stiff and water-soluble
• Therefore, act as the best support material for flexible filaments.

Disadvantages/Issues

• Hence, dissolves in water easily
• Should be kept in a dry place
• Therefore, expensive material than other filaments

Applications

• Therefore, best used for models with internal supports or supports for incredibly detailed models with many overhangs.

This guide to 3D Printing is about the remaining filaments which were left in the previous guide. Hence, it is all about the guide to 3D printer filaments. There is one more upcoming part of this that will help you choose better.

To get excellent results in 3D modeling you must have the passion. Therefore, everything related to computers, understanding of, and the way objects are placed in space and be an imaginative thinker.

Once you get close to the 3D modeling hub; it opens windows to limitless opportunities. The process is being used in various industries, from medicine to fashion, to engineering to entertainment. No matter the direction you choose to follow. 3D modeling will certainly turn out to be a great skill. Below is the information regarding the tips that beginner 3D modelers should follow.

What is the 3D Model?

A 3D model is a virtual representation of a three-dimensional object that is generated on a computer. It is a model that can be rotated and observed from all angles. A 3D file like this is needed as input for a 3D printer.

About 3D Printing a 3D Model

Not all 3D models were created with 3D printing in mind. Often 3D files were created for animation movies or computer games, and typically these models still need to be prepared for 3D printing. There are several design rules to keep in mind about this. But a very reoccurring issue is getting the right “Wall Thickness”. Wall thickness is simply the distance between one surface of your model and its opposite sheer surface.

Start with modeling simple objects

This is like learning a new language: you start by learning the alphabet, then different diphthongs, then short words, and then you get to the tough part of putting them all together. The same goes with 3D modeling.

Start modeling simple objects, like cubes, spheres, and pyramids to become comfortable with the basics. If you don’t know the basics. Then, how are you supposed to be successful with more complex shapes? Design simple objects until you feel confident enough to move to more difficult designs. This process will teach you the correct approach and will build the necessary modeling skills to take your work to the next level.

Know your printer’s build area

You will need to know the size of your printer’s build area. To ensure the objects your design will fit when printing. Also, you’ll need to know the size so you can accurately cut a bigger model into separate parts. Thus avoiding poor aesthetics and visible seams or lines after assembly.

If you, however, want to model a larger part without the need to cut it. Hence keep in mind that you can make use of the diagonal space. Experiment and find the solutions that will allow you to model and print with more accuracy and precision.

Generating Gcode

Gcode is the code language that most 3D printers run on. It’s what tells them where to move, how fast to move there, and how hot to be.

To generate the Gcode you need, you have several options:

• You can “Export” in the bottom right when you’re in the “3D View” or you can go to “Layer View” and click “Generate.”
• “Generate” will completely slice your model, but it will only save it in the backend of MatterControl, which is helpful if you aren’t quite sure if the settings for your print aren’t right yet and don’t want to fill up your SD card.
• “Export” will slice your model and save it to a location of your choosing.
• Once the Gcode has been generated, if you go to “Layer View” you can view what each layer will look like with either one layer at a time or in 3D and see the layer you are on and all the previous layers.

You’re ready to get printing! Wait – here are some quick tips:

• Make sure the first layer is going down really well. If it’s smearing, you’re too close, if you can easily see where one line was laid down next to the other, you’re too far. You have to find that “Goldilocks spot.”
• Watch the first couple of layers. The first layer may be fine, but the subsequent layer may have issues. Stick around for a little while to make sure everything goes smoothly.
• Don’t sit there for the whole print. Check up on it regularly, and be nearby, but you don’t need to monitor it. Once we’ve tested printers with short prints we can monitor while we are in the office, we will run weekend-long prints on them without worry. If you can’t go through these steps then Download free 3D models here.

Conclusion

We hope these tips will help you with the information you need to start your 3D modeling journey and support you to keep going. Using these tips beginner 3D modelers enjoy 3D printing your own 3D objects.

Credits: Wings3D.com, youtube.

3d printing involves different stages and processes of designing and printing. 3d designers use different software, different print in materials and printers, and sometimes most of them using a different printing technology suited to the product or item they’re printing. So it’s perfectly normal to feel lost until such a time where we feel like it seems difficult to design a perfect 3D model for 3D printing. Common mistakes 3D printing while designing and modeling to be avoided.

But not to worry! I’ve arranged a list to spot out the most common mistakes in designing and printing a 3d model and how to avoid these mistakes. Common mistakes 3D printing to be avoided are mentioned below.

Material Guidelines Ignorance:

The most important thing to keep in mind is that all the materials have different qualities like some are brittle, stiff, flexible, solid, dark or lightweight so on and so forth. At the time of designing, these qualities should be considered while using any particular material. So before starting anything, first you have to carefully examine or identify the design and the materials you need to use for the specific 3d model. For e.g., if you want to print your 3D model in Ceramics, there will be specific material-related design recommendations that you need to take into account such as supporting overhanging parts, strengthening elements that are sticking out, rounding off corners, etc.

For developing a successful 3d printing model, it’s essential to follow material guidelines.

Solution:

Before you start to work on your model, it’s essential to read the design guides. You can set a filter for specific materials on our site to get a better understanding of what designs other artists have created in what materials.

Software Guidelines of Ignorance:

The 3d Printing group of people uses different 3d modeling software packages. Some software is specially integrated to make 3d prints, while others are mostly used for 3d artists and designers so they can offer a great 3d printed model. In some cases, software programs offer automatic wall thickness application while the others you need to manually set it.

Each and every software has its own different functions and processes. Depending on which software you are using, shells must be joined together, models must be made watertight, and wall thicknesses need to be applied. For this, use software like Blender, Sketch Up, or ZBrush, however additional file preparation will need to be done.

Solution:

Before using any software, stick to software guidelines for creating a model into a 3D print. You can also use the free software, Meshmixer or Tinkercad for creating a hollow model if you’re a beginner in 3d Designing.

Printing Technology Ignorance:

After checking the materials needed for your 3d model, it’s time to check the 3d printing technology you need to use to print your model. For example, if you are using materials like ABS, Polyamide, Alumide, and Rubberlike, you can print the interlocking parts while the others are impossible. The reason behind this is not the material itself, but the technology that is used for printing each of these materials.

ABS we used Fused Deposition Modeling. Polyamide, Alumide and Rubberlike we use Selective Laser Sintering. The printing precious metals we use lost wax casting. While for Resin we use Stereolithography (liquid polymer-based).

Solution:

You need to remember that the designing stage is the key. Check the materials you’re going to use and see its equivalent printing technology. Also, keep in mind that the maximum printing sizes differ when you use different printers and technologies.

Wall Thickness Ignorance:

Wall thickness Problems are the basic common reasons why some 3D models are not printed. If the walls of 3D model are thick, then it causes internal stress, and there is a bad effect on the item also. On the other side, if the wall thickness is too thin, then it’s not able to print small parts on the model.

Wall thickness ignorance can cause trouble while printing products for your client. It is essential to check always on the wall think of the model that you want to get printed.

Solution:

https://youtu.be/NRb6cRTCXkU

Read some blogs and watch tutorials about getting the perfect wall thickness for your 3D model. It will help you to get rid out of this problem.

File Resolution Ignorance:

Read the design guides? Know your material? Clear what software you will need? Is Wall thickness ok? Great, but now there is another important thing to discuss: File resolution.

As we all are aware, we save our 3D printing design in STL format. While exporting your designs to STL format, you have the check on the resolutions. Too high or too low resolutions can cause troubles. The best solution to file resolution – at the time of exporting a file defines the tolerance for the export.

Solution:

It is wise to choose 0.01 mm for good file export. Because exporting with a tolerance smaller than 0.01 mm does not make sense because the 3D printers cannot print at this level of detail. When exporting with a tolerance larger than 0.01 mm, triangles might become visible in the 3D print. I hope the article related to common mistakes 3D printing to avoid while designing and modeling is helpful.

Credits: youtube.com, Pinterest.com, Linkedln. 

AM can be implemented throughout all of the steps of the manufacturing process, from creating prototypes and producing supporting tools like jigs and fixtures to end part production.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XWFF8qr0pyo

Visual Prototypes

When it was invented, 3D printing was mentioned as rapid prototyping, a method for automating and reducing the labor required to create a prototype model for design validation. Since then, it has found use in a number of other applications, but the technology is still widely implemented to create visual models and functional prototypes.

For the production of visual models, 3D printing has evolved more. Though it’s possible to create highly detailed prints with technologies like stereolithography (SLA), full-color 3D printing with binder jetting, paper 3D printing, and material jetting can achieve a vibrancy impossible with other technologies.

ColorJet Printing

ColorJet Printing (CJP), a binder jetting technology from 3D Systems, involves the deposition of a liquid binding agent and CMYK inks onto a bed of gypsum powder, resulting in the creation of full-color, sandstone-like models. Though the process is different, PolyJet, from Stratasys, takes this a step further with the ability to alter physical properties such as flexibility and transparency. PolyJet is a material jetting technology that deposits photocurable resins, which are then hardened with a UV lamp.

Mcor’s paper 3D printer

Mcor’s paper 3D printing technology unable to achieve the same geometric complexity but the parts are made from paper, making it eco- friendly. This process sees CMYK deposited onto white paper, which is then pasted to the previous layer and cut with a tungsten carbide blade.

Functional Prototypes

For testing the function of a design, color quality may not be so important. For example, testing a living hinge might require 3D printing with a durable thermoplastic, such as nylon, or with a rubber-like photopolymer, printed with material jetting or vat photopolymerization technologies, such as SLA or digital light processing (DLP). For wind tunnel testing, a number of technologies work, but the part will need to be post-processed in such a way that aerodynamic properties of a part aren’t inhibited by the striation made through the 3D printing process. For this reason, a high-resolution technology may be preferred.

Alta Motors All-Electric Motorbikes

Alta Motors is an electric motorcycle manufacturer that has begun working to use 3D printing to prototype parts for its bikes. In designing the firm’s Redshift motorcycle, Alta Motors turned to 3D printing service bureau The Technology House (TTH) to iterate functional prototypes quickly for parts that were to be mass manufactured. TTH relied on continuous liquid interface production (CLIP), an ultrafast 3D printing process from Carbon, to 3D print a number of parts.

Tooling

As a design moves from the concept phase to the production phase, a manufacturing operation may implement 3D printing for the fabrication of custom tools that aid in the production process. This can include anything from guides for precise drilling, dies for forming or cutting the raw material into a specific shape and measurement tools, like gauges, to jigs and fixtures that hold a part in place while other operations are performed.

3D printing may be used directly or indirectly in the creation of tooling. In the case of indirectly fabricating a tool with AM, a tool may be made by coating a 3D-printed component in rubber, which is then used to cast the tool itself.

When tools are custom made for a new manufacturing job, a business may need a third-party service provider, which may rely on traditional manufacturing technologies, such as CNC machining, to create the tooling. This process can be costly and time-consuming, with the business waiting weeks to months for the tools to be shipped in order to even begin manufacturing.

Patterns, Core, and Molds

3D printing is also used to produce objects that will ultimately be cast in metal. On a small scale, this can mean lost-wax casting models for jewelry and dental crowns. On a large scale, this can mean creating sand cores for casting complete engine parts.

In the process of lost-wax casting, a positive is 3D printed in a castable material. It is then submerged in a specialty investment material and burned out in a kiln. The result is a mold that is filled with molten metal to create a metal part. SLA, DLP, and material jetting technology, like the wax 3D printing process created by Solidscape, are ideal for this process, as they are capable of producing finely detailed prints with a high burnout.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=15AmryIYu4k

For larger parts, binder jetting processes, like those from Voxeljet and ExOne, may be implemented to 3D print sand cores and molds. Binder jetting involves the deposition of a binder material onto a bed of powder, including sand, layer by layer until the print is complete. In sand casting, this object may then be placed into a molding box, which is filled with molten metal and, once cooled, broken apart to reveal the final metal object.

Due to the speed, quality and cost of AM, the technology is best suited for the production of specialty parts in smaller batches, rather than mass-manufactured goods. For this reason, end products that are made with 3D printing have usually been made that way for the good cause.

Credits: Google, discbum.com, engineering.com, youtube.com 

Nerdforge Youtuber, he has shown the simple things. That you can do to make your 3d prints look the best and yes they won’t even look like they are 3D printed coz the finishing is that fine. Also in addition to the above video, you can use these extra tips to help you out.

What do you need to do for proper finishing 3D Prints?

Everything lies in the slicer settings

Your slicer settings deal with how your final product looks. For example, the layer height gives the details to the specific height of each layer in the design. If the layer height is thick than the final object won’t have many details and layers become visible. If it is thin the details of the final object are visible enough blending the layers into each other. Thus this setting is necessary.

Also, the printing speed is a  necessary factor and it depends on which object you are printing. If it’s a complex object with too many details that keep the speed slow. Else if not many details are needed than a faster printing speed would do no harm.

Shell thickness refers to the number of layers. That the outer wall will have before infill printing will begin. The higher the setting is for shell thickness. The thicker the outer walls of your object will be. So if you are going to finish the object by sanding, you want to increase the shell thickness to account for the material. You will be removed later.

Get more information about the slicer settings here.

Support structures

If your 3d printed objects have overhangs than you need a support structure. Also to be printed for it which has to be removed later after the 3d printed object is complete. Now it depends whether your support structure is soluble or insoluble.

If it is insoluble you need a knife or a cutter that helps you get rid of the extra filament your object has and if it is soluble. You’re likely dealing with either PVA or HIPS. In this case, simply submerge the object in the solvent in question – water for PVA and Limonene for HIPS. The water should completely dissolve the PVA support structure within several hours.

Clean it with Fillers

A quick fix for the lazy man to improve the quality of the 3d printed object is using fillers. If the object gets printed unevenly or there is a small amendment to be done to cover a small space, fillers always do help.

We recommend using XTC-3D which you can get here. You’ll notice you can even use it for smoothing out 3D prints just by brushing it over as a 3D print coating. Fill the gaps neatly so that you don’t have to waste your time on sanding the object later.

You’ll also need to leave it to cure for at least a few hours after filling.

 Sand and Polish them

Sanding can be used for materials like PLA and ABS but not for hard materials like polycarbonate and PMMA. If you want to make your 3d print shine and it cannot be vapor smoothed than sanding is what has to be done.

Chose a good quality filament so that sanding doesn’t result in ruining the object. PLA ‘s lower melting temperature can make the object soft and gummy if you sand it roughly. Use a circular motion with a slow-moderate pressure to remove unwanted material. The idea is to get rid of what you don’t want while leaving absolutely no trace that you’ve done any finishing work.

Vapor smoothing

Vapor smoothing requires some instruments. But if you are good with it then you can use simple materials found around the house. Remember not all filaments are the same, so while using this method I would suggest you test out the filament first and then apply the method to your 3D Printed object. In addition, testing a piece of the filament may also give you an idea of how much time it might take for the materials to start to dissolve.

Watch the video for more knowing the Vapor Smoothing process in detail.

Bead Blasting

Another process that needs equipment but takes a shorter duration of just 5 to 10 minutes.

It includes spraying tiny, plastic particles at a part of a closed chamber to produce. A smooth finish and is flexible which goes better with FDM materials. It also can be used in parts throughout their product development and manufacturing lifecycle, from the initial to the final stage.

Paint it well

Along with many other essential tools that can help you while 3D Printing and finishing the products. Also painting the product is quite essential. It is the last step and you need to be careful with it. It’s best to first mount it on what’s known as a painting block using a dowel.

A painting block is nothing more than a block of wood that supports the object while it is being primed and painted. Also, remember that priming and painting an object can be a messy business. You want to stop the paint from getting on objects that it shouldn’t and you want to keep foreign objects, like dust, from settling on your printed object while it dries. Therefore, work in a well-ventilated area that is clean and well lit.

I hope these methods help you in proper finishing 3D Prints your designs perfectly…

HAPPY PRINTING!!!

Credit: pinshape.com,wired.com,machinedesign.com,i.materialise.com,makerbot.com,3dparts.com

If you’re working with ABS then you’ve probably come across the acetone vapor method or heard about. This guide is here to help you know a little more about this method and even try it out for yourself.

Smooth and shiny prints are on their way!

How it works:

Since acetone is a solvent, it reacts with ABS filament & ASA filament in the form of liquid or vapor. These filaments dissolve easily in the liquid but can also melt completely if the acetone is applied directly on to it. In some cases, it is possible to quickly dip an object into acetone liquid to get a polished surface, but this can be very messy and gives inconsistent results.

Hence it’s much more practical to use acetone vapors instead which allows you to control the process and keep things from getting too messy! As the vapors can get to all exposed surfaces equally, there are fewer areas of uneven melting.

What you will need:

You can build your very own smoothing chamber with the following:

– an  acetone-proof container like a glass vase or tin

– paper towels

– acetone

– a flat, non-porous plate such as glass or metal, to raise the object being polished

Make sure your work area is a well-ventilated one that has no exposed ignition sources. Safety glasses/goggles, mask, gloves are all advisable.

The Method: 

Taking a clean glass container, place a few sheets of kitchen roll along the side and bottom of the container. These will soak up the acetone and allow vapors to form within the container.

To hold the kitchen roll sheets in position, you can place a cardboard or metal support. Make sure that you arrange the kitchen roll in such a way that when it gets wet with liquid acetone it cannot fall down onto your printed objects, as that will destroy any chances of achieving an acceptable finish.

1. Pour the acetone over the tissue sheets placed at the bottom of the container.
2. Rotate the container to make sure it has been spread and soaked up evenly.
3. Invert the container so that the bottom is now at the top. Place your object in the middle of a plate and place the inverted container over it.
4. Let it sit for a bit and keep an eye on your object. The polishing process has already started!.

Here’s a cool video made by DIY Perks to help you out-

Things to remember:

– ABS from different brands will be different. If your ABS is cheap then it will dissolve unevenly and make your print look distorted so make sure you have a good quality filament.

– The acetone fumes don’t only affect the outside of your print but also penetrate into the body of your 3d printed object.

– After exposing your object to acetone vapors, you will need to air the object for a period of time depending on how dense the 3D print is. For objects with higher density, it could take up to a week or more.

– The polishing process continues even after you remove the object from the acetone chamber so be sure to remove your object when you think it’s halfway there. You can always put it back inside if you feel like it needs more smoothing, but you cannot undo the smoothing so it’s important to go slow.

– Remember that the surface of your object is soft after removing it from the acetone chamber. This makes it more prone to attract dust particles and other tiny particles, so make sure you place it a dust-free area while it hardens.

So there it is! Give this method a try and share this easy trick with your friends! Happy Printing

Pssst! Need a cool printer to get started but can’t make up your mind? Head over to our Store.

Credits: sinkhacks.com, youtube.com, paulsaulnier.com

Finishing your 3D printed model is as important to perfectly printing the individual parts. And bonding them neatly and accurately is even more so or all that effort to print them is gone in vain!

One way to get a good outcome is to create your print in multi-part assemblies, but how do you combine them to get a 3d printing result you can be proud of?

Super Glue

Almost everyone uses Superglue for 3D printed projects. Easily accessible as well as easy to use makes Superglue the major go-to for printing 3d printed parts. Be it Super Glue, Gorilla Glue, or a two-part epoxy, it is a common and flexible choice but it may not be the best. Take a look at the other items below.

Solvent

If you’re looking for another medium and super glue just isn’t your thing then maybe you should consider using a solvent instead. A solvent like Acetone, for example, will let you bond parts essentially, chemically melting it. Just be careful and give your project enough ventilation.

So why is a solvent such a popular pick? Well, with solvent, what is left is just the plastic – nothing added. Also, being a watery liquid, it can drip, seep and draw into places other methods cannot reach.

Most people are aware that ABS can be solvent welded with Acetone, which is commonly found at hardware stores in bulk or drug stores. But whats interesting to learn is that some PLA filaments can be solvent welded with it too!You can experiment with some PLA of your own and find what works best for you.Make sure you use a natural brush rather than one with plastic bristles.

HIPS can be dissolved by limonene, but the modeling solvent Polystyrene can also be used, just like when you build model airplanes! Another advantage of solvent is, in addition to brushing it on neat, you can use it to fill larger gaps by dissolving some filament for a while to make a thicker consistency.

Hacks like these call for a lot of DIY and if that’s what you love then check out the Geeetech prusa I3 A Pro 3D printer DIY kit – It’s perfect for every DIY buff!

Heat

Just as solvent melting does, you can also, obviously, use heat. Usually melting filament comes from the extruder or leaving your part in a hot car, but a soldering iron or even hot air gun can be employed.

Heat melting is the least favorite technique used because you could easily melt your 3D model to a goop if use too much heat.

Friction Welding

Friction welding is the process of welding two objects together by harnessing the heat generated by friction. To generate the heat required to melt the plastic you’ll need a rotary tool like a Dremel or drill where you can insert some filament into the collet where the drill bit would usually go, then get it up to speed while applying light pressure against where you want to join.

Once the filament is spinning in the rotary tool the idea is to gently feed the fast spinning filament into your seam line. The friction created by the rotation raises the filament and model to their glass transition temperature at which point you feed the filament into the seam.

3D Pen

One of the most fun and handy ways of bonding your designs is with a 3D Pen and once you try it, you won’t want to use any other method again! A 3D pen saves you from all the hassles of using solvents, heat and drill machines!

It doesn’t deform your print and you also get the exact color and detail that you need. Apart from this you can even fill in gaps and stick together broken pieces that may have fallen off. It works well with ABD and PLA filaments.

So which of these hacks will you be using for your next project?

Credits- photobucket.com, makezine.com, inhabitat.com

Post-processing opens up a world of interesting possibilities beyond just the print, but requires you to think about the process a bit differently.

Here are the important bits:

Sanding 3D printed models can help to remove the appearance of layer lines, but it is important to carry out the practice carefully, starting with rougher paper and finishing with softer. It is also important not to sand in one place for too long as heat generated from friction could melt the PLA. It is advised that surfaces printed in the Z axis will have the smoothest surface finish, and if you plan to glue your model, take care not to remove too much material around seams or joining surfaces.

Sanding a 3D printed part

For when the gluing stage comes around, here is one hot tip: when creating joints or keys for a model, one should make sure to create joining features large enough for the 3D printer to create them cleanly. Generally, features should be larger than 4-5mm in diameter. Glued components should be secured together using rubber bands, and cyanoacrylate glue should be used to spot glue around the connecting areas. If seams are rough or have gaps, bondo or filler can be used to smooth them.

Gluing a 3D printed part

When a 3D printed part is sanded and glued together, painting is often the next step. For this important stage of post-processing, it is highly recommended hanging the prepared 3D print in an open, dust-free space with plenty of ventilation. This will allow you to paint all surfaces evenly without having to handle the model while paint is drying. Primer/filler should be used first, followed by another stage of sanding, after which paint should be sprayed at an arm’s length from the object. The painted object will be ready to polish after 1-2 days.

Painting a 3D printed part

To add longevity to 3D printed enclosures that need to accept screws, it is often useful to install threaded inserts. When doing so, holes in a model should be made slightly smaller than the inserts to be installed. This will account for any plastic that melts when installing the inserts. Additionally, increasing the number of shells will leave more plastic around inserts. When installing the inserts, it is useful to keep the 3D printed part secure in a vice, and incredibly important to only install the inserts gradually, since PLA can deform at moderate temperatures.

Installing threaded inserts into a 3D printed part

The final part of the post-processing guide concerns how to vacuum form using 3D printed molds. Vacuum forming is a manufacturing process in which a sheet of plastic is heated and pressed over a form to create a part, and is used to make plastic containers, amongst other things. When 3D printing vacuum forming molds, we suggest increasing shells and infill settings to create a strong mold that will withstand the pressures of vacuum forming. An industrial vacuum forming machine is needed to heat the plastic sheet, which can then be pressed over the 3D printed mold. According to MakerBot, it is worth producing two or three spare 3D printed molds up front in case the first mold becomes damaged.

Vacuum forming with a 3D printed mold

With these beneficial tips for post-processing 3D printed items, we envision a thriving future for the development of 3D manufacturing and a vista of more and more 3D hobbyists joining us~~

via 3ders