introducing Geeetech Duplicator 5 dual extruder DIY 3D printer

Duplicator 5 is a DIY dual extruder 3D printer by Geeetech. It is made to be the best companion for you to embark on the fascinating 3D printing journey. Its DIY design gives you unlimited joys when you are seeing a complete machine coming out of a pile of components.

Hiding behind its gentility appearance is a slew of excellent features, making it outstanding among its competing products. High printing accuracy and speed, incredibly thin layer height, stable frame, customized 3D printing software— EasyPrint 3D, easy-to-manage LCD screen and open filament system. The most attractive one is its agile dual extruders, allowing you to print in multi-colors and unleashing your unique creativity.

With an extra Wi-Fi module, you can upgrade Duplicator 5 to enjoy the convenience brought by our cloud 3D printing solution. After you configure your Duplicator 5 with Wi-Fi hotspot, the cloud 3D printing solution enables you to enjoy a plenty of free 3D models, direct control over the whole printing process and share your printing experience via App anywhere and anytime.


1.  Multi-functional dual extruder

With dual extruder, you can print a single two-color object or two objects with each coming in different colors. Besides, you can just print one single-color object, as with other single-extruder 3D printers; or you can use one extruder for infill or support.

2. Safe, stable and space-efficient

High-quality wooden plank renders Duplicator 5 firm and durable as well as attractive in appearance. The main board and power supply unit are installed at the bottom of the printer, safe and space efficient. This structure lowers the gravity center of the printer, providing stable support for printing. The half-opened design of the printer provides you with various perspectives to observe the whole printing process as well as enough protection.

3. Printing quality: High layer resolution and tolerance deliver smooth surface finish and durable object structure.

4.Large print volume: 230x150x150mm standard printing area, enough printing volume catering to your creative ideation.

5. Self-developed GT2560 control system.

The main board is our self-developed GT2560 3D printer control board which supports dual extruder and comes with more well-designed interfaces.

With its flash memory as 256KB and working frequency as 16MHZ, GT2560 control system empowers Duplicator 5 to run at peak performance.

6. User-friendly LCD 2004 control board & SD card, stand-alone printing enabled.

Duplicator 5 adopts LCD2004 controller, with which detailed printing status could be clearly presented on the screen. Besides, it is convenient to select 3D models and adjust printing speed, temperature and other parameters via the simple operation flow.

With a SD card and the straight-forward LCD screen, Duplicator 5 can easily run under the stand-alone printing condition. This allows Duplicator 5 to print untethered to your computer.

7. Open filament system: ABS/PLA/Flexible PLA/ Nylon/Wood-Polymer, providing extendable space for your creativity. Give you a wide range of printing choices.

8. Cloud 3D printing solution: use a Wi-Fi module to enjoy 3D printing untethered. (Note: Wi-Fi module is not included in this kit; you need to buy it separately.)

After you upgrade Duplicator 5 with a Wi-Fi module, the cloud 3D printing solution is available for you to enjoy a plenty of free 3D models, direct control over the whole printing process and share your printing experience via App anywhere and anytime.

9. The joys of DIY

Further simplified and stiffened parts make it a reality to assembly and adjust the whole frame fast and easily. Building Duplicator 5 step by step, you will have an in-depth knowledge of 3D printers. Time-saving and full of the sense of accomplishment.

10. Application

Duplicator 5 can be used to deliver practical printouts for different fields, such as art, fashion, household, learning, tools and toys. Meet your virtual needs.


Print technology: FFF/FDM

Build volume: 230 x150x150mm

Layer resolution: 0.1-0.3mm

Positioning Precision: 0.1-0.3mm

Filament diameter: 1.75mm

Nozzle diameter: 0.4 mm

Filament type: ABS/ PLA/Flexible PLA/ Wood /Nylon


Operating system: Windows/Mac/Linux

Control software:  EasyPrint 3D, Repetier-Host and other 3D printing software

EasyPrint 3D App

File format: .STL, .G-code


Max heated bed temperature:  about 110°C

Max extruder temperature:  about 240°C


Power supply:

Input: 110V/1.5A  220V/0.75A

Output:DC 24V/15A

Connectivity: USB, SD card (support stand-alone printing)


Body: Quality wooden plank (black)

Build Platform: Aluminum plate + MK2A hotbed

XYZ Rods: Wear-resistant, stainless steel

Stepper Motors: 1.8° step angle with 1/16 micro-stepping

Physical dimensions:

Machine dimension: 467 x 313 x 375 mm

Shipping box: 520 x 440 x180 mm

Net weight: 8. 50 kg

Gross weight: 10.13 kg

Introducing GiantArm D200 cloud 3D printer-part 6 Cloud 3D Print

GiantArm D200  3D printer, recently launched by Geeetech, has been held up as the pacemaker of 3D cloud printing field. This game-changing 3D printing device is found complete with several mainly attractive features like smart cloud printing, break-resuming capability, filament detector and etc. Among these prominent functions smart cloud printing stands out attracting the attention of both 3D printing fanciers and manufacturers.

GiantArm D200 Smart 3D Cloud Printer

The smart 3D cloud printing advocated by Geeetech empowers users to enjoy free and enormous cloud space and agile control and cluster management of multiple 3D printers via PC and mobile devices interactively and simultaneously. Besides, it is convenient for users to make use of smart standby function at any time, which would eliminate their worries about running their printers around the clock. In the cloud space, a vast number of users’ profiles are securely stored and a gallery of printing data and 3D models is available, greatly decreasing the complicated jobs of downloading, uploading and slicing 3D models.

GiantArm D200 Smart 3D Cloud Printer

The combination of cloud and the specially devised APP makes GiantArm D200  3D printer a professional, reliable and convenient machine for 3D printing hobbyists from diverse fields. The intuitive and fully-featured interface of APP allows users to agilely select beloved models from cloud or SD card, and observe and control the printing state via Wi-Fi anytime and anywhere. In addition, users can exert real-time control over the extruder temperature, feed rate, fan, X/Y/Z axis position, printing speed and other detailed settings via APP. Therefore, this integration of the two software innovations helps users to accomplish palm 3D printing untethered.

GiantArm D200 Smart 3D Cloud Printer  EasyPrint 3D

The implementation of smart cloud 3D printing constructs a sustainable 3D printing ecosystem, greatly improving the level of resource utilization. With this service, GiantArm D200  3D printer has become the beloved smart device for 3D printing hobbyists across different fields, such as architecture design, education, maker space, and talent classes. With the supports of users throughout the world, GiantArm D200  3D printer is bound to make a difference in the 3D printing space.

The EasyPrint 3D APP is available on google play now, you can download and install it.

Start enjoy the easy of cloud printing today!

Introducing GiantArm D200 cloud 3D printer-part 5–Filament detector

Believe that many 3D printer users, either beginners or professionals, are not alien to this frustrating scene: when you are excited about almost finishing your complicated or large model, the filament unexpectedly runs out, forcing you to restart the long-long print journey. At this moment, the only words escaping from your lips should and could be “Dame it!!” How we wish there would be a defect detector to save your beloved prints and our fragile and strong hearts tortured by constant printing failures!

Estimating whether you have enough filament left on the spool to finish the print has always be a difficult task. More often than not, we find ourselves with an uncompleted print and the printer is always left printing in the air caused by filament outage or fracture.

To get you out of the dilemma, a simple practical filament detector is added to GiantArm D200 3D Printer.It is designed to enable your printer temporally pause when it tests the un-present of the filament and saves the uncompleted printing file. The extruder will move away after paused to avoid destroying the printed model under high temperature, combined with our resurrection system, you can then change the spool and resume the printing job.


The implementation of this new filament detector involves some simple technical elements. Its core component is a detection module. The following makes a brief introduction of this additional function. When the filament goes through the detection module smoothly, the mechanical endstop is triggered, sending a [1] signal to the control board. Under this circumstance, the filament icon will be shown on the LCD screen. In contrast, when the filament runs out or is broken, the mechanical endstop in the detection module is not triggered, giving the signal [0] of filament outage to the control board, and the LCD screen will display filament outage to users and the buzzer will go off. In this case, the print will automatically enter pause mode and wait for reinsertion of filament.

The employment of filament detector would, in a large measure, decrease the time spent on repetitive printing and the cost of filament. Most importantly, with this auxiliary function, 3D printing fanciers would really get themselves out of those annoying situations and enjoy smooth and quality printing.


Introducing GiantArm D200 cloud 3D printer-part 4 Break-resuming capability

Unexpected power failure?

Need to stop and change filament?

Filament fracture or outage?

Printing in your fragmentation time?

Want your printer to take a nap?

Looking after your printer as a printer-sitter?

You may have suffered all of the above troubles during printing.

To solve the above issues, a resurrection system, that is, the break-resuming capability has been added to GiantArm D200 3D printer.

Active or passive interrupt, the break-resuming capability enables you to restart the printer and resume the interrupted printing job at the same place as if it never stopped.

When power failure takes place, electrical system will trigger the break-resuming loop. The energy storage unit will provide enough power for saving the current printing status.

Meanwhile, the printing will stop and the building platform will drop down to keep away from the object. In this way, the unfinished print will not be melted and destroyed by the nozzle.

Change filament easily: multiple-color printing and sectioned printing enabled; even single extruder can deliver multiple-color printout.

Large models=long printing time???

Rome is not built in a day! Prints do not have to be finished at one time.

Break-resuming capability helps to continue your printing in your spare time.

Now you can totally say good buy to a printer sitter and your prints will never be destroyed by power failure.

Enjoy 3D printing!

Buy GiantArm D200 3d printer at geeetech 3d printer online strore.

Stay tuned for more introduction of GiantArm D200 3d printer!

Introducing GiantArm D200 cloud 3D printer-part 3 Newly designed extruder

Hi guys, last week, we have introduced the printing procession and the smart cloud printing solution of GiantArm D200 cloud 3D printer. Let’s continue with more features.

Modularized Extruder of GiantArm D200 3D printer

Another exciting feature on this GiantArm D200 3D printer is the 1:3 reduction extruder.With first grade reduction gear wheel, the torque of the newly designed extruder is 2 times higher than conventional extruders, guarantees stable and smooth extruding, delivering high printing quality.

Modularized Extruder of GiantArm D200 3D printer


The modularized design also brings you unbeatable ease to change the hotend which is in slide connection with the coldend. Now with a little slide, you can assemble /disassemble the hotend like a breeze.

Modularized Extruder of GiantArm D200 3D printer

The detachable hotend is available in different nozzle size: 0.35mm, 0.4mm and 0.5mm. You can choose the suitable nozzle size according to your printing need.

hotend of GiantArm D200 3D printer

hotend of GiantArm D200 3D printer

Based on the pipe design principle, the seamless joint between the feed inlet port and the barrel renders the feeding process easier and extrusion smoother.

Altogether, the modular design of extruder could also be appraised as a stellar feature of GiantArm D200.

Check here for more information about  GiantArm D200 3d printer

Buy GiantArm D200 3d printer at geeetech 3d printer online strore.

Stay tuned for more introduction of GiantArm D200 3d printer!

Introducing GiantArm D200 cloud 3D printer-part 2 Smart 3D printing Solution

Smart 3D cloud print solution

Ever longing for systematic and simplified 3D printing experience? Our smart 3D cloud printing solution, together with EasyPrint 3D APP, enables you to enjoy plentiful free 3D models in our cloud gallery, preview the model and with a click of the print button, wherever you are, the printing file of the model will be transported to your GiantArm D200 3D printer and what you need to do is wait for it to show up in front of you miraculously while you go back to home.

GiantArm D200 APP smart control

Responsive, elegant and easy-to-manage, the specially developed EasyPrint 3DApp provides you with the convenience to monitor and modify real-time printing status via Wi-Fi. No more convenience than this!

GiantArm D200 APP smart control

EasyPrint 3D APP features:

  • Intuitive ,Easy-to-use UI
  • Monitor the printing status
  • Control your printer from anywhere with Wi-Fi
  • Connect to cloud gallery and access to thousands of free 3D models
  • Alerts you when your printing job is finished
  • Alerts you when filament runs out or breaks
  • Alerts you when printing job breaks off
  • Activate the printer from power saving mode with just a click


EasyPrint 3D App is specially designed to connect 3D print fanciers from all over the world.

It is a social app which is multi-featured with 3D printer remote control, 3D models cloud gallery, 3D printing community.

Photos and videos are so easily uploaded to EasyPrint 3D app, its super simple to share images or videos of your impressive prints with the community worldwide.

See what’s new and noteworthy, what the community has made, and what’s popular. When looking at the things themselves, scroll through beautiful slideshows of photos.

Help you to record and witness your great prints in daily life, just like good friends.

Plentiful FREE 3D models in cloud gallery

EasyPrint 3D App, a considerate aide, enables you to choose your favorite model from 9 categories and share your unique design with other 3D printing hobbyists. Preview 3D models and start to print at your finger tips.

Nine categories: 3D printer parts, 3D printing art, 3D printing fashion, 3D printing electronics, 3D printing household, 3D printing hobbies, 3D printing  tools, educational 3D printing, 3D printing toys

Plentiful FREE 3D models in cloud gallery

With these extremely useful features, GiantArm D200 3D printer offers you a pleasant experience with 3D printing. Wi-Fi connectivity, mobile EasyPrint 3D APP, cloud 3D printing solution, the break-resuming capability and filament detector, all these make it possible for you to direct control to your GiantArm D200 via your Smartphone to enjoy pure freedom of printing, either on a journey or out for a short-time reunion with friends. Simple, practical and thoughtful

Buy GiantArm D200 3d printer at geeetech 3d printer online strore.

Stay tuned for more introduction of GiantArm D200 3d printer!

Introducing GiantArm D200 cloud 3D printer-part 1 Printing Precision

A cloud 3D printer, GiantArm D200 is engineered to deliver reliable, convenient, professional printing experience for 3D printing aficionados. Print anywhere, anytime.

GiantArm D200 3d printer


The uni-body sturdy laser-cut steel frame makes GiantArm D200 3d printer simple and stable, as well as attractive in appearance, embodying our consistent notion – reliable and professional. The half-opened design of the printer provides you with enough protection, as well as various perspectives to observe the printing process.

Printing precision of  GiantArm D200 3d printer  can be up to 0.05mm.

let’s taka a look at the Printing precision.

GiantArm D200 3d printer

GiantArm D200 3d printer

GiantArm D200 3d printer

GiantArm D200 3d printer

The Giantarm D200 has more excited features, we will share with you next time.


Troubleshooting Guide to 24 Common 3D Printing Problems| Part 1

Fused Filament Fabrication Frustrations? Read our 3D printing troubleshooting guide to most common 3D printing problems and their solutions.

It’s amazing what your 3D printer can produce. But we’ve all had those infuriating moments when, despite everything, a seemingly simple model just refuses to print successfully.

You’ve checked the model, seen countless others make it without issue, but try as you might it just won’t print. What is it that keeps going wrong?

Here at ALL3DP, we’ve had our fair share of print failures. But the upside to those failures is that we’ve become finely tuned to recognizing and solving many common 3D printing problems.

Direct from our 3D printer troubleshooting experience, we’ve collected together 24 of the most common 3D printing problems and replicated them here.

This article will help you to quickly diagnose your 3D printing issues, and find the solution with our 3D printer troubleshooting guide. Discover how and when these 3D printing problems occur, and the steps you can take to avoid them in future.

3D Printing Problems #1: Blocked Bowden Nozzle

What’s the 3D Printing Problem?

You initiate a print job but whatever you try, nothing comes out of the nozzle. Extracting the filament and reinserting doesn’t work.

What’s Causing the 3D Printing Problem?

A small piece of filament has been left behind in the nozzle after changing spools, often because the filament has snapped off at the end. When the new filament is loaded, the piece of old filament that is left in the nozzle doesn’t allow the new filament to be pushed through.

Alternatively, a build up of molten plastic in the end of the nozzle has hardened and will need manual removal. Specialist, cheap or old filaments are a common cause.

3D Printing Troubleshooting: Blocked Bowden Nozzle

  1. Unblock with a needle. If you’re lucky then unblocking can be a quick and easy process. Start by removing the filament. Then using the control panel select the “heat up nozzle” setting and increase to the melting point of the stuck filament. In the case of the Ultimaker 2 go to Maintenance > Heat Up nozzle. For PLA set the temperature to 220 C. Once the nozzle reaches the correct temperature, use a small pin to clear the hole (being careful not to burn your fingers). If your nozzle is 0.4mm then you need a pin that is smaller; an airbrush cleaning kit works perfectly. It’s also worth getting a brass cleaning brush to remove any filament build-up on and around the nozzle.
  2. Push old filament through. If you find that the nozzle is still blocked then you may be able to push the filament through with another bit of filament. Start by removing the filament as before and then remove the feeder tube from the print head. Heat up the hot end to 220 C for PLA and then using another piece of filament push this through from the top to try to force the stuck filament in the nozzle out. Usually if new filament hasn’t succeeded in unblocking then the extra pressure you can exert by hand might just do the job. However don’t push to hard as you’ll bend the horizontal printer rods.
    Once the end clears use a needle to push through the nozzle and a brush to clean any filament excess.
  3. Dismantle and rebuild the hotend. In extreme cases when the nozzle remains blocked, you’ll need to do a little surgery and dismantle the hot end. If you’ve never done this before then it’s a good idea to make notes and take photographs so you know where everything fits when you reassemble. Start by removing the filament, then check your printer’s manual to see exactly how to dismantle the hot end.

3D Printing Problem Checklist: Blocked Bowden Nozzle

  1. Heat the nozzle and clean with a needle and brass cleaning brush
  2. Remove the feeder tube and try pushing the filament through with another piece of filament
  3. Dismantle the hot end and see if you can extract the filament blockage

3D Printing Problems #2: Broken Infill

What’s the 3D Printing Problem?

The internal structure of your print is missing or broken.

What’s Causing this 3D Printing Problem?

There are a number of reasons for the misprinting of the internal structure. The most common is incorrect settings within the slicing software, but it can also be due to a slightly blocked nozzle.

3D Printing Troubleshooting: Broken Infill

  1. Check the Fill density. In your slicing software check the infill density. A value of around 20% is normal; any less than this and you’re likely to have issues. For larger prints you may want to increase this to ensure that the model has enough support.
  2. Infill Speed. The speed at which the infill is printed can have a major effect on the quality of the structure. If the infill is looking week then decrease the infill print speed.
  3. Change the pattern. Most slicing software enables you to change the internal structure. You can have a grid pattern, or triangle, honeycomb, and more. Try selecting a different option.
  4. Check your nozzle. It might be that there is a slight blockage in the nozzle. While the blockage doesn’t effect the printing of the thicker exterior walls, because there is less flow for the internal structure the filament is getting caught.

3D Printing Problem Checklist: Broken Infill

  1. Check and adjust the Fill density
  2. Decrease the Infill Speed
  3. Try a different infill pattern
  4. Check your nozzle for blockages

3D Printing Problems #3: Cracks In Tall Objects

What’s the 3D Printing Problem?

There are cracks on the sides, especially on taller models. This can be one of the most surprising issues in 3D Printing as it tends to manifest itself in larger prints, and usually whilst you’re not looking.

What’s Causing this 3D Printing Problem?

In higher layers, the material cools faster, because the heat from the heated print bed doesn’t reach that high. Because of this, adhesion in the upper layers is lower.

3D Printing Troubleshooting: Cracks In Tall Objects

  1. Extruder temperature. Start by increasing the extruder temperature; a good start would be to increase it by 10ºC. On the side of your filament box you’ll see the working hot end temperatures, try to keep the temperature adjustment within these values.
  2. Fan direction and speed. Double check your fans, make sure that they’re on and aimed at the model. If they are try reducing their speed.

3D Printing Problem Checklist: Cracks In Tall Objects

  1. Check the hot end temperature and raise at 10-degree intervals
  2. Check the position and speed of the cooling fans

3D Printing Problems #4: Elephant Foot

What’s the 3D Printing Problem?

The base of the model is slightly bulging outwards, otherwise known as “elephant foot”

What’s Causing this 3D Printing Problem?

This ungainly effect can also be caused by the weight of the rest of the model pressing down the first layers when the lower layers haven’t had time to cool back into a solid – particularly when your printer has a heated bed.

3D Printing Troubleshooting: Elephant Foot

  1. The right balance. To stop elephant foot appearing in your 3D prints the base layers of the model need to be cooled sufficiently so that they can support the structure above, but if you apply too much cooling to the base layers you can create warping. Getting the balance right can be tricky, start by lowering the temperature of the print platform by intervals of 5 degrees, (within +/- 20 degrees of the recommended temperature). If your  Bottom / Top Thickness is set to 0.6mm then start the fan after the fan at a slightly lower height.
  2. A level base. More often than not the majority of print issues can be traced back to the level of the print platform. Each printer has a slightly different technique for print platform leveling. Start by using your printers manufacturers recommended procedure. Then print a calibration cube and just watch how the filament is laid down. From printing of the cube you should be able to see if the filament is being laid down evenly, if the nozzle is too close to the print platform and scraping through the molten filament or too high and causing the filament to blob.
  3. Raise the nozzle. Just raising the height of the nozzle slightly can often help, but be careful too high and it won’t stick to the platform.
  4. Chamfer the base. If all else fails then another option is to chamfer the base of your model. Of course, this is only possible if you have either designed the model yourself or you have access to the original file. Start with a 5mm and 45º chamfer, and experiment to get the best result.

3D Printing Problem Checklist: Elephant Foot

  1. Balance print platform temperature and fan speed
  2. Level the print platform
  3. Check the nozzle height
  4. Chamfer the model base

3D Printing Problems #5: Extrusion Temperature Too High

What’s the 3D Printing Problem?

Filament is surprisingly resilient to all types of misconfiguration, including overheating of the hot end. It’s for this reason of resilience that noticing your hot end is too hot isn’t always as easy as you’d think it would be. The effects can be as obvious as discolored filament; in our sample here the dark line that appears half way up 3D Benchy is an obvious sign of scorching where the filament has burnt. This scorching can just appear as slight discoloration or darkening which is less obvious than the dark line above.

Another sign can be the appearance of uneven layers; when you take a closer look you can see that it’s not so much uneven as melted. Again our model shows this subtly on the cabin, and to a far greater effect on the chimney where it starts to look a little like wax running down a melted candle.

Overheating filament can also cause huge issues with accuracy especially when it comes to threadscrew holes. Finding that some holes are correct and others are too small is often an initial sign that the temperature may well be a little too high.

What’s Causing this 3D Printing Problem?

Normally, having too hot a hot end or overheating is an easy fix. The hot end is too hot so you need to cool it down. There needs to be a fine balance between melting the filament so that it will flow, and enabling the filament to solidify quickly so that the next layer can be applied to a solid surface. Before you go adjusting the temperature however, first make sure that you have loaded the correct material settings for your 3D printer (as part of the filament loading process). If you have, then it could be that you need to adjust the temperature just a touch.

3D Printing Troubleshooting: Extruder Temperature Too High

  1. Check the material settings. This might seem obvious, but just double check that you’ve given the printer the correct details about the material. The latest filament temperatures range from between 180 – 260ºC or thereabout, so it’s surprising how easy it is to get this wrong.
  2. Decrease the hot end temperature. In the printer or software settings decrease the hot end temperature. Depending on the severity of the overheating, drop the temperature in 5ºC intervals.
  3. Speed up the print. If the filament isn’t being discoloured then you could try speeding up the print speed.
  4. Check the fans. Check that the cooling fans are directed at the hot end. Check that they’re in the right position and if possible boost their speed to increase airflow over the cooling filament.

3D Printing Problem Checklist: Extruder Temperature Too High

  1. Check the material settings.
  2. Decrease the hot end temperature.
  3. Speed up the print.
  4. Check the fan position.

3D Printing Problems #6: Gaps between Infill and Outer Wall

What’s the 3D Printing Problem?

When you look at the top or bottom of the print, you can see a slight gap between the infill and the outer perimeter walls.

What’s Causing this 3D Printing Problem?

Gaps between the perimeter and top layers used to be a common problem, but as printer accuracy has improved and the support for different materials extends, it’s now less of an issue than it was.

However the new wave of advanced materials are far less forgiving than the likes of PLA and ABS, and we’re starting to see a slight resurgence of the problem.
Gaps are caused by the filament used for the infill and outer walls not quite meeting bonding and is a relatively easy fix.

The most obvious cause of the problem is that the infill overlap is not set, or it’s set to “0”. This means that the slicing software is actually telling the printer not to allow the two parts of the print to meet.

Another issue could be the order in which you have set the infill and outer perimeters to be printed. If you’re printing the perimeter first for a high-quality print then there is generally little or no overlap which can again cause the problem.

3D Printing Troubleshooting: Gaps between Infill and Outer Wall

  1. Check the infill overlap. This is by far the most common issue and is really easy to resolve. In your slicing software locate the ‘Infill Overlap’ option and increase the value.
    • In Cura by default this is set to 15% so raise it to 30%.
    • In Simplify3D you’ll find the option in ‘Edit Process Settings > Infill > Outline Overlap’ again increase the value. This setting is directly linked to the extrusion width, so the % value will be a % of whatever you’re extrusion width is. When adjusting this setting always keep it below 50% or you’ll start to see the effects of the overlap in the outer perimeters of your print.
  2. Printing infill before the perimeter. If you’re printing with a relatively thin outer wall the structure of the infill can show through. If this happens then you can switch the order by which the printer lays down the infill and perimeter layers. For example, in Cura check to see if you have ‘Infill prints after perimeters’ ticked.
  3. Increase Hot end temperature. Some of the latest advanced materials such as XT-CF20 are a little less forgiving when it comes to spread due to the carbon fibres that make up part of their structure. When printing with these materials you may find that a slight 5-10º increase in hotend temperature makes all the difference.
  4. Slow it down. Okay, so you may be in a rush to get the printout, but printing at higher speeds can cause all sorts of issues if the printer isn’t perfectly calibrated. If you need to print quick you can still avoid gaps by decreasing the speed of the top layer.

3D Printing Problem Checklist: Gaps between Infill and Outer Wall

  1. Check the infill overlap.
  2. Printing infill before the perimeter.
  3. Increase Hot end temperature.
  4. Slow it down.

3D Printing Problems #7: Ghosting of the Internal Structure

What’s the 3D Printing Problem?

The final print looks fine but an outline of the internal support structure can be seen through the walls of the print.

What’s Causing this 3D Printing Problem?

The issue with ghosting happens due to the infill encroaching into the path of the perimeter. This effect is most visible when your print has thin walls. The problems is caused by the infill structure overlapping with the perimeter line as it’s being laid down. Although this ghosting is an issue it’s actually an important part of the printing process, as it helps the internal structure bond effectively to the external walls. Luckily it’s very easy to overcome.

Another cause of ghosting can be that you have set an incorrect wall thickness in relation to the size of nozzle that you’re using. In normal print conditions the size of the nozzle should be directly related to the nozzle size, so if you have a 0.4mm nozzle then the wall thickness should be a multiple of this, either 0.4, 0.8, 0.12 and so forth.

3D Printing Troubleshooting: Ghosting of the Internal Structure

  1. Check the shell thickness. Make sure that the value you have selected for the shell thickness is a multiple of the nozzle size.
  2. Increase the shell thickness. The easiest solution is to increase the shell thickness. By doubling the size it should cover any overlap caused by the infill.
  3. Use Infill after perimeters. Most slicing software will enable you to activate Infill prints after perimeters.
    • In Cura open up the ‘Expert Settings’ and under the Infill section tick the box next to ‘Infill prints after perimeters’
    • In Simply3D Click ‘Edit Process Settings’ then select ‘Layer’ and under ‘Layer Settings’ select ‘Outside-in’ next to the ‘Outline Direction’.
  4. Check print platform. Check around the model and if you see that the effect is more prevalent on one side than the other, the effect could be due to calibration. If so run through the usual calibration process.
  5. Use it to your advantage. Depending on the type of model that you’re printing you can use the internal and shell printing order to your advantage. When you want a high-quality print with a good surface finish where the actual strength of the model isn’t important, select print from the Outside-in. If however the strength of the print is paramount then select Print from in Inside-Out and double the wall thickness. The reason for the difference in strength is that when you print from the Outside-in you eliminate the small amount of overlap that causes the ghosting issue, but this also means that the actual structure won’t create the same strength of bond between the internal and external structure due to the lack of overlap.

3D Printing Problem Checklist: Ghosting of the Internal Structure

  1. Check the shell thickness.
  2. Increase the wall thickness.
  3. Use Infill after perimeters.
  4. Check print platform and recalibrate if necessary.
  5. Use it to your advantage.

3D Printing Problems #8: Layer Misalignment

What’s the 3D Printing Problem?

Some layers in the middle of the objects have shifted.

What’s Causing this 3D Printing Problem?

The printer belts aren’t well tightened. The top plate isn’t fastened and wobbles around independent of the bottom plate. One of the rods in the Z axis is not perfectly straight.

3D Printing Troubleshooting: Layer Misalignment

  1. Check the belts. Start by checking each of the belts are tight but not over tight. You should feel a little resistance from the two belts as you pinch them together. If you find that the top section of the belt is tighter than the bottom then this is a sure fire sign that they need a tweak and tighten.
  2. Check the top plate. Check the top plate and all rods and attachments at the top of the printer and make sure everything is tight and aligned.
  3. Check the Z axis rods. Many printers use threaded rods rather than lead screws and although these do the job they do have a tendency to bend over time. Don’t worry about dismantling your printer to see if they’re straight, simply use the software such as ‘Printrun’ to move the print head up or down. If one of the Z axis rods is bent you’ll instantly see. Unfortunately, it’s almost impossible to accurately straighten a rod once it’s bent, but on the upside, it’s a good excuse to replace the old threaded rods for lead screws.

3D Printing Problem Checklist: Layer Misalignment

  1. Check the tension in the belts
  2. Check there’s no movement in the top plate
  3. Make sure the Z axis rods are straight

Via all3dp.