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This J-head V2.0 hotend is a combination of ideas from other nozzle designs combined with a goal to reduce the number of custom machined parts to a bare minimum.
The J-Head V2.0 has been proven to print reliably with both ABS and PLA. PLA will require a small fan to provide air-flow through the cooling vents milled in the sides of the nozzle holder.
This hot-end easily interfaces with the most popular RepRap extruders, including Wade's Extuder, Greg Frost's Hinged Accessible Extruder, etc.
Features:
High-quality PEEK heat-insulated pipe.
Duralumin alloy nozzle.
Small size, light weight.
The PTFE is not stressed nor used to provide support. This reduces a point of failure that is part of other designs.
The entrance is located at the PEEK tube inner side, which is more preferable for the implementation of the short-range extruders.
Noted:
4 optional nozzle size: 0.3mm, 0.35mm, 0.4mm, 0.5mm
2 optional filament size: 1.75mm, 3.00mm
Package list:
1 x Peek short-distance J-Head V2.0 Hot End . (Please Note: Choose "Nozzle Size" and "filament size" you wanna)
More information please refer to the wiki page
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I ordered this hot end because it appears to fit the design specifications of the original j-head. However, it was unable to complete its first print without jamming. Very disappointing.
It is not end that you replace a new hot end. Sometimes you have to make some change in firmware.
Did you do some change in firmware?
Yes I made changes in the firmware, but that doesn't help when the hot end doesn't work as it should. If I get it to work without jamming (which requires modification), it still is entirely incapable of printing top surfaces and bridges. Its nozzle tip tears bridges right off and leaves me with a very ugly print. My old hot end (which didn't work on prints that took longer than 10 minutes) was able to print bridges just fine, but its tip was much pointier. This hot end collects every blob and string on its tip which will destroy any top surfaces printed.
I figured out what the problems were. This hot end is poorly manufactured... the PTFE liner is too short so that it does not press against the aluminum barrel to make a seal. This can be remedied with a small nut placed between the PTFE liner and the hollow set screw. The second problem is not so easily fixed... the extrusion hole is not centered inside the hot end. This makes it so the extruded plastic will exit the hot end at an angle instead of straight down. This results in poor top surfaces and inability to create clean bridges. This hot looks surprisingly close to a real j-head, but the quality control is apparently non existent. I took a photo of this http://goo.gl/wn6l4r notice how the drill point is not where the extruder hole is. If it is difficult to tell in the photo, the extruder hole is to the bottom right of the drill point. A poor quality nozzle means a poor quality printer.