A10M Bed sticking

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PrebenGH
Posts: 13
Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2019 9:43 pm

A10M Bed sticking

Post by PrebenGH » Sat Jul 13, 2019 6:05 pm

I know there are many topics concerning this problem in this board.
But I am about to give up on this printer, the A10M.
Each morning when I start to print, I have to spend 1-2 hours and several runs to get my prints to stick. I level each corner with a piece of paper, I use 3DTouch and try to adjust the z-axis offset, and finally everything seems to work, and the prints (1-2) for the rest of the day work flawlessly.
And I think that now it’s fine.
The next day the trouble starts again, I have to level corners etc.
Today I have now spend two hours, and without success. The print starts ok, the first layer looks perfect, but when I come back half an hour later, parts of the print is floating all over the plate.
I print with PLA, I use 195C for the printing temperature (that completely solved stringing issues for me), bed temperature 65C or 60C, first layer 0.3mm, printing speed 50mm/sec.
I have tried to use hair spray, but also without success.
I can see most comments on related topics suggest to level the bed and ensure the distance between the nozzle and the bed is optimal, but I think I have done that (several times now).
Any suggestions would be very welcome, as I think the A10M gives me very good prints, when it works.

wotor
Posts: 26
Joined: Tue Dec 26, 2017 1:18 am

Re: A10M Bed sticking

Post by wotor » Sat Jul 13, 2019 6:55 pm

Hi. Check yours Y axis wheel ball bearings (under the bed) it seems like they might be loose. I have always great success with using glue stick with PLA prints but never tried on a10m perforated glass bed.

Geeeko
Posts: 19
Joined: Sun Feb 03, 2019 12:20 am

Re: A10M Bed sticking

Post by Geeeko » Sat Jul 13, 2019 9:23 pm

Do you print single or double colors ?
I use blue tape for the bed. And a first layer at 10 mm/sec. Usually it works fine. I rarely adjust the bed.
When error occurs it is with large pieces because the bed is not perfectly flat but for anything that starts in the center I have good adhesion with the blue tape which can handle several prints before beeing changed.

Akrubek
Posts: 1
Joined: Sat Jul 13, 2019 9:27 pm

Re: A10M Bed sticking

Post by Akrubek » Sat Jul 13, 2019 9:31 pm

Hi,
I am new with 3D Printer, I believe I leveled bed correctly with the paper, but still, there is no PLA stick to bed...all the filament stay in together on nozzle....I really don't know whats wrong...I red several advices, but no success...

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William
Site Admin
Posts: 3947
Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2016 9:38 am

Re: A10M Bed sticking

Post by William » Mon Jul 15, 2019 9:31 am

Hi, you can try to check if the hot ends are fully joined, then heat the nozzles to 200° and manually push the consumables to check if they can be discharged normally.
-Keep your mind and try to test it. :)
-Everything will be fun!-Support all Getech printer.
-You can ask me the questions and I will kindly reply.
-Respect others is the best way you can get help!

PrebenGH
Posts: 13
Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2019 9:43 pm

Re: A10M Bed sticking

Post by PrebenGH » Sun Jul 21, 2019 12:02 am

I finally got my bed levelled really good.
Originally I had mounted a 3DTouch. I found a couple of good videos on Youtube, especially this one: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=RZRY6kunAvs
I followed the suggested procedure and was able to print the four corner bricks and the center one fairly good.
Then I decided to print another file, but that would not stick at all, the hotend was too far off the bed. I couldn’t quite understand this, but I was beginning to suspect that the 3DTouch was the main cause of my problems.
So I decided to disable it and install Marlin 1.8.1 without BLTouch support. Then I redid the bed levelling as described in the video.
I have now been able to print several parts without any issues.
What was wrong with the 3DTouch sensor I don’t know, but I will not use it again.

Actually I get some really good prints now from the A10M. I print with PLA, and I read in a post that to avoid stringing I should lower the printing temperature and increase travel speed. I now print at 190C and use a travel speed of 150mm/sec, and I am completely free from stringing. In Cura 4.1 I use a square prime tower of 20mm and use a filling of 40mm3 for both colors. This way I get a very good shift between the colors without one color bleeding into the other.
My only issues at the moment is the pausing on the prime tower when shifting between colors, and that the prime tower have both colors on all layers even when one color is not used for the particular layer.

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