Running out of things to replace on my A10M...

Post Reply
ez_3dprinter
Posts: 7
Joined: Fri Dec 07, 2018 5:40 am

Running out of things to replace on my A10M...

Post by ez_3dprinter » Thu Jan 03, 2019 3:59 am

I own three 3d printers, the A10m being my latest. I like a lot about this printer and have gotten some great prints using the dual extrusion. This isn't meant to be a rant but I would like to get some real advice on how to get this thing working better.

My A10M performs beautifully until I attempt to print part(s) with separate vertical areas. At which point the stringing that I get from the E0 primary side (left side) of the hot end is horrific. The E1 side (right side) is pretty much perfect. That is in real world use as well as toggling from extruder to extruder with the FW mixer within the same exact print with the same exact settings. I've tweaked the print settings over and over again with little to no improvement in the E0 performance. I've also ruled out potential differences in filament by swapping one roll from E0 and E1. I've cleaned the hot end numerous times with "atomic pulls" etc. and the nozzle is not clogged but has been changed as a precautionary measure. The truth is with the E1 side working correctly it really rules out a lot of stuff.

So, that has led me to try and diagnose a mechanical difference in the E0 and E1. With the OEM extruders I could hear a difference between E0 and E1... it sounded like E0 was just working harder to push/pull the filament through the bowden set-up.
  • That led to my first purchase of new PTFE tubing and couplers. I ordered enough to do both sides and installed the new set-ups without realizing any change in performance.
  • That being the case, I began working on the extruders themselves... took them apart, cleaned them, lubed them and reinstalled them. No change.
  • I then decided that I would order and change out the OEM extruders with dual drive Bondtech clone extruders. Just go them installed and absolutely no change.
I'm at the point where I think that there has to be something wrong with the E0 side of my hot end. I can still hear a difference between the two extruder motors and the E0 motor appears to be working harder to push/pull filament. I've already spent quite a bit of $ troubleshooting this thing as well as numerous hours... should I try and get another hot end under warranty??? Does anyone else have any words of wisdom?

ez_3dprinter
Posts: 7
Joined: Fri Dec 07, 2018 5:40 am

Re: Running out of things to replace on my A10M...

Post by ez_3dprinter » Thu Jan 03, 2019 7:30 am

Another hour or two of troubleshooting. Swapped the entire E0 post hotend assembly (motor/extruder/FTFE tubes/couplers) for the E1 assembly and the same symptoms prevail.

At this point I think I have pretty much eliminated any other possibility and I believe that the left side of the hotend (the side E0 feeds into) has to have something wrong with it. :(

Fugly
Posts: 28
Joined: Fri Nov 16, 2018 4:41 am

Re: Running out of things to replace on my A10M...

Post by Fugly » Fri Jan 04, 2019 6:31 am

Im new to 3d printing, but have you tried swapping the drivers on your mainboard. Try swapping E0 driver with E1 and see if the problem swaps.

User avatar
William
Site Admin
Posts: 6340
Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2016 9:38 am

Re: Running out of things to replace on my A10M...

Post by William » Fri Jan 04, 2019 9:26 am

ez_3dprinter wrote:
Thu Jan 03, 2019 7:30 am
Another hour or two of troubleshooting. Swapped the entire E0 post hotend assembly (motor/extruder/FTFE tubes/couplers) for the E1 assembly and the same symptoms prevail.

At this point I think I have pretty much eliminated any other possibility and I believe that the left side of the hotend (the side E0 feeds into) has to have something wrong with it. :(
I think you can adjust the vref of the A4988
You can try to set it to 1.1V and test it again.
Or you can swap the X/E1 's a4988.
If it allows,you can open the GTA2 extruder part and check the E1 inside broken or not. ;)
-Keep your mind and try to test it. :)
-Everything will be fun!-Support all Getech printer.
-You can ask me the questions and I will kindly reply.
-Respect others is the best way you can get help!

ez_3dprinter
Posts: 7
Joined: Fri Dec 07, 2018 5:40 am

Re: Running out of things to replace on my A10M...

Post by ez_3dprinter » Thu Jan 10, 2019 9:13 am

I did bump the VRef up to 1 and it did help some... will keep playing. Thanks!

mractor
Posts: 6
Joined: Wed Aug 28, 2019 8:13 am

Re: Running out of things to replace on my A10M...

Post by mractor » Wed Sep 04, 2019 1:10 am

I just saw your post, and I'm happy and saddened at the same time. I have just experienced the exact same conditions you reported on in January. I bought my A10M a few weeks ago, and the stringing is incessant. Now I'm getting clogging on the E0 side, and very thin flow from E1. I purchased a new hotend that I was going to swap out...but now I see you have saved me from going down the same rabbit hole...did you ever get this issue resolved...or should I toss this A10M out and get a brand new printer? :? :?

Jarda3d
Posts: 189
Joined: Sat Jan 26, 2019 8:42 am

Re: Running out of things to replace on my A10M...

Post by Jarda3d » Thu Sep 05, 2019 6:41 am

There are big difference between colours. Black colour need lower temp, white higher. I print white plastics (at higher speeds of course) up to 258°C at A10M. See my printing profile. There are temperature height profiles in gcode manipulation. But I use ABS only of course for vase etc too... Try to change temps for PLA, but ABS is better, PLA is for childs.

Dual colour profile is included, you need cleaning bin (see first page of my print profile)
A10M Slic3r profile: here and fresh on github (lot of tips here)
A10 Slic3r profile: here
TIP: tight all screws and wheels (except right side of Z axis) and re-align frame while assembly. And silence it.

Post Reply