Power Outage

[_kaktus_]

...
Just USB + LCD
...

Excellent.

...
Just Power + LCD
...

Also Excellent.

...

Power + USB + LCD = Blackout(As seen in video mentioned above)

Not right.
But this confirms that you've probably assembled everything correctly.

It remains to be clarified whether your computer has an active power function from the USB port.

It would also be a good idea to try out a different power supply for your printer. Yes for testing.


I am currently watching the diagram and images of your controller board. I don't know to what extent these materials are up to date.
I mean switching off the mechanism that activates switching the 5V power supply to the logic in your controller (between PSU and USB). This can help solve the problem.

[Cub]

...
Just USB + LCD
...

Excellent.

...
Just Power + LCD
...

Also Excellent.

...

Power + USB + LCD = Blackout(As seen in video mentioned above)

Not right.
But this confirms that you've probably assembled everything correctly.

It remains to be clarified whether your computer has an active power function from the USB port.

It would also be a good idea to try out a different power supply for your printer. Yes for testing.


I am currently watching the diagram and images of your controller board. I don't know to what extent these materials are up to date.
I mean switching off the mechanism that activates switching the 5V power supply to the logic in your controller (between PSU and USB). This can help solve the problem.

• Plugged in USB in PC while it was off, LCD did not light up.
• What else can I use to power my Printer to test?

Thanks for taking your time helping me, I appreciate it!

[_kaktus_]

...
Plugged in USB in PC while it was off, LCD did not light up.
..

We had to write the message at the same time. When I approved my post, I saw your answer earlier.

The electronic circuit near the USB port should have a fuse marked F2.
Can you find it You can show a picture with this part of the controller board.

Unsoldering it will interrupt the power supply circuit of the controller board from the USB port.
This operation is safe.
It will turn off the automatic power switching between PSU and USB.
This function has already caused many problems for different users.

However, if it were possible, I would prefer you to test another power supply for your printer first.

[Cub]

...
Plugged in USB in PC while it was off, LCD did not light up.
..

We had to write the message at the same time. When I approved my post, I saw your answer earlier.

The electronic circuit near the USB port should have a fuse marked F2.
Can you find it You can show a picture with this part of the controller board.

Unsoldering it will interrupt the power supply circuit of the controller board from the USB port.
This operation is safe.
It will turn off the automatic power switching between PSU and USB.
This function has already caused many problems for different users.

However, if it were possible, I would prefer you to test another power supply for your printer first.

Welp, crossing my fingers that this will get solved eventually..

Is that the F2 Fuse where the arrows are pointing?
If so, I could unsolder it right away.

54773623-FC8A-4E53-93C4-05BA7C09AA6C.jpeg (436.25 KiB) Viewed 199233 times

But before I do, you mentioned I should test a diffrent Power Supply. How should I do that?

[_kaktus_]

Yes, the element indicated by arrows.
.

Zasilanie_USB_GT2560revA+.png (29.54 KiB) Viewed 199232 times

.
In your case it is a 0Ω resistor.

..
But before I do, you mentioned I should test a diffrent Power Supply. How should I do that?

You should get any 12V DC adapter.
If you don't run the heaters during the test, the power supply doesn't have to be very powerful. Let's say that in this case the 2~3A power supply will be sufficient.
You can also use the ATX power supply from your PC.

The PSU outputs must be connected to the input on the controller board.
You must pay special attention to polarity.

[Cub]

Yes, the element indicated by arrows.
.
Zasilanie_USB_GT2560revA+.png
.
In your case it is a 0Ω resistor.

..
But before I do, you mentioned I should test a diffrent Power Supply. How should I do that?

You should get any 12V DC adapter.
If you don't run the heaters during the test, the power supply doesn't have to be very powerful. Let's say that in this case the 2~3A power supply will be sufficient.
You can also use the ATX power supply from your PC.

The PSU outputs must be connected to the input on the controller board.
You must pay special attention to polarity.

I guess I‘ll test a diffrent PSU before I unsolder.
Since I don‘t have one at hand, I‘ll purchase one.

Do you reckon that this one works?
https://www.amazon.de/JoyNano-schaltnet ... &keywords=

[_kaktus_]

It should be sufficient.

But I don't want you to have costs.
In this case, you can unsolder this resistor used as a fuse, and if the problem is not solved then you will spend the money.

[Cub]

It should be sufficient.

But I don't want you to have costs.
In this case, you can unsolder this resistor used as a fuse, and if the problem is not solved then you will spend the money.

Would the wiring be the excact same for the new PSU?(Same color coded?)

At this point I don‘t mind spending money. Been waiting far too long..

[_kaktus_]

Each power supply unit has a description of leads right at the terminals.
.

zasilacz_12V.jpg (160.42 KiB) Viewed 199223 times

.
You can take a look at your current unit.

I found it more efficient at a comparable price:
Redrex DC 12V 20A Universal Reguliert Switching Power Supply

However, I'm still wondering why branded power supplies of similar dimensions have less power ...

[Cub]

Each power supply unit has a description of leads right at the terminals.
You can take a look at your current unit.


I found it more efficient at a comparable price:
Redrex DC 12V 20A Universal Reguliert Switching Power Supply

However, I'm still wondering why branded power supplies of similar dimensions have less power ...

Alright, I ordered the one you‘ve mentioned.
Mine doesn‘t say anything but I‘m guessing it‘s:

Brown - L
Blue - N
Yellow - GND
Black - COM(-V)
Red - +V

Thank you for the help so far! I‘ll post on this thread again asap after testing the PSU.

Thanks!!