Geeetech

yes just fine tune the X/Y/Z/E steps so you can improve the precision.

how about use this one here:

I think this is fine, as long as the object is in the center of the print bed, then don't need to change the offsets.

you might need to check out this link:
http://www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopic ... 19&t=17097
And note when Z=0mm, if the nozzle is too close to the bed, the filament will not come out fluently too.

2.4ohms? did you minus the resistance of the multimeter itself? 2.4 ohms is too high for the heatbed, and if it's correct, it can't blow the fuse..maybe a defective fuse? I find the fuse here: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=fuse+10A+SMT&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0....

You can download the firmware for your G2S here: http://www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=17046 It's based on marlin 1.0.3 dev. And the motors, first make sure they are all correct connected, and then check the driver voltage as this link shows: http://www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?...

Then seems like a hardware problem. Are all your driver boards working properly? I mean the driver voltages, are they all correct? You can check out this link for more details: http://www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=17038 Also are your driver boards 4988 or 8825? Can not use 8825 on the ...

This link here might help you:
http://www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopic ... 18&t=17341

where did you get the instructions? I checked mine, it is correct, plugged in the Z MIN connector.

oh I thought you were printing with the USB, and in that case you can home the X axis manually and quickly. But I don't know how to do this using the SD card, sorry mate.