Geeetech

Sorry, just now seeing this post. Did you still need help?

Will a E3D V6 hotend fit the stock A10 mount? I accidentally messed up the heater block on my printer and can't print right now.

Not yet, but I plan to. It's the best E3D V6 clone I could find. Plus, Gulfcoast Robotics has excellent customer support. You'll need to shorten the wires. I believe this hotend is slightly shorter, so if you plan to use the stock setup you may need to use a mod like this: https://www.thingiverse.co...

I would HIGHLY recommend this one: https://gulfcoast-robotics.com/collecti ... 3d-printer

If you have the 24V A30, just put a note in checkout and ask for 24V electronics.

Actually everything goes in the 5 pin connector above the 3 pin. From left to right it's brown orange yellow black white

Hi, I'm currently trying to replace the control board in my A30 printer with a new board from BIQU ( SKR V1.1 ) and I'm a little confused by the wires that trace back to the control board from the PCB mounted on the Hotend. IF I'm reading the following diagram correctly, only the negative side of th...

Thanks for the suggestion! Which Mean Well model are you using?

I plan on running the control box and hot end fan on buck converters. For the part fan I'll run a 24v 5015 so I can control the RPM.

So I've got the original 12 Volt A30 and I was thinking about upgrading it to 24 Volts. When I first received the A30 I replaced all the fans with nice quite Sunon fans, So I don't particularly want to replace all the fans again. Is there a downside to running the Control Box and Hotend Fan with a b...

You don't need a voltage divider if you're running the probe at 5 volts. Try testing the Black Signal wire with no resistor.

So a little backstory. I've got a Geetech A30 and A10. I had been using the A30 with upgraded TMC2224 drivers. However, because the power supply died in the A30 (Geeetech is sending a replacement) and I've been unhappy with the Smartto Firmware I've retired the A30. At least until Marlin can be comp...