first 3 layers have no colour

[kaestnerw]

I am a newbee in 3d-printing.
I have build my printer, I received a new extruder, because the original one had a problem with the temperature, but it works now.
But I am learning and so I build a quader with 3 mm high and 2 rounded edges in a 3d-CAD-Programm. I put it into slic3r and was printing. I am using in the moment green PLA Filament. the first 3 Layers where build as diagonal lines, but they are as thin that you cant see a clolor and very few filament was used. After that he printed some honeycomb and the parts on the lefthandside started to become green, on the right side there was still no color, in the nex layer there was color from the left side to the middle and in th sixt layer he started to print color in all of the area (8cm long) Is this OK or what can be wrong ?
I tried it again and stopped printing. see the foto attached.
Thanks for your advice.
Greetings from Salzburg

[_kaktus_]

Hello
It seems as if you have to repeat the procedure of levelling the work table (hot bed).

[Gingko]

agree with @Kaktus!
The distance between nozzle and hotbed seems different from left to right.
Level hotbed again.

More information about extruder problems:
viewtopic.php?f=19&t=17097
viewtopic.php?f=19&t=18507

[kaestnerw]

Thanks for the prompt reaction, additional Question - is there an advice how to lvelling the hot bed.
Thanks

[Gingko]

[quote=kaestnerw post_id=84235 time=1526638712 user_id=65356]
Thanks for the prompt reaction, additional Question - is there an advice how to lvelling the hot bed.
Thanks
[/quote]

[kaestnerw]

Thank you for the Information, I now get the printing OK.
So i learned, how it works if the distance between hotbed and nozzle is to small. But what happens if the distance is to large ?
How can I say this is the best distance ? in the Info there is a best distinc between 0,5 and 1 mm. I am using at the moment a thick paper with approx. 0,8 mm on all 4 edges and I am looking that the paper kann be movend if between nozzle and hotbed. is this Ok or any other advice ?
Thank you.

[_kaktus_]

Hi
If the distance is too large, the plastic will not bond well to the work surface. The printout may then detach from the table during operation.

You're doing great with this operation.
You can also use thinner paper.

[kaestnerw]

Thanks for the info, I have tried it and now I have adjusted the distance to 0,4 mm and it works quiet good.
I also have the blue tape on top of the heatbed and I had no problem when printing even with PLA.
There are still some questions:
how often should the distance be adjusted ? every time before I start printig or ?
could i have fotos, how the printer looks like when all the cables are put somewhere in order, my printer doesn`t look fine, but I have no idea how to order them.
I am printing quaders, which will be used on the top of a case to store electronic in it. and I also printed the base of this case - see the fotos.
the bottom and the walls on the sides are 3mm thick, the slicer makes of it 3 staight lines around but there are no connections between these 3 parts of the wall, between these 3 parts there is a gap (I have put in a paperclip ). I would like to have these 3 parts connected, that would make them stronger (sorry for my poor english) Is there a hint how I can get to this ?
I was not able to put the stl in the attachment.

[_kaktus_]

Maybe I will start from the end. ;-)

There is a parameter called Infill Density. See for yourself how it works. :-D

I personally adjust the level each time before printing.
In addition, when the work table and the head are warmed up.

You have to assess for yourself how often it is worth to level the work table.
Over time, you will gain practice and be able to easily assess when it is necessary.

It is worth to put the cables in order so that they are not tangled up. The power cables can be separated from those with digital signals.
Take a moment to see how the cables are laid during printer operation.
This allows you to select the optimal route for the cables.

I took this step only when the printer worked a good few hundred hours.

Some of the cables were replaced with longer ones, others were shortened.
Practically this phase has not been completed yet.

I was able to order some of the cables from Geeetech. Some of them I had to make myself because in the lengths I needed they were not available as spare parts in the offer.

If you are an electronics professional, you can prepare all the cables yourself.
I was lazy ;-) It will take you some time to identify the connectors.

I can tell you there are PH, PX and molex mini-fit series connectors.
I have a different model of controller board in my printer.

[kaestnerw]

Hallo kaktus,

thanks for your help, the infill density is a good advice, but the problem is in that case the slic3r - I have posted the problem in the RepRap-Formu in german under Software and the solution is: in the version of slic3r there is a Bug - see the Advices under:
[renedruckt.blogspot.de]
thanks
Wilhelm