i3X LCD stays black

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William
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Re: i3X LCD stays black

Post by William » Wed Dec 28, 2016 2:00 pm

Did you read this post before?
http://www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopic ... 23&t=17030
And according to what you said,the board can be detected by your computer successfully in Device Manager?
-Keep your mind and try to test it. :)
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Lamont
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Re: i3X LCD stays black

Post by Lamont » Wed Dec 28, 2016 3:00 pm

Thank you for that, that gave me little hope. Found a couple old hard drive jumper caps, other one snapped in like it should but the other one was little loose, however i tried them both on both places and the middle one was always empty and both times got the same result: Err: MAXTEMP BED, and all the temperatures show 0/0. So i think that this is progress and next thing ill try is try a new thermistor on the hot bed to see if that would help. Other thing i was thinking is that when i first assembled this i did wire everything carefully and double checked that everything was in the right place and still got the same error, then i switched one thermistor to the empty spot against the manual and it was fixed just like that. This time however that didnt work and eventhough this new board is little newer version (still the same gt2560) there are only 3 thermistor pins and i have tried them all. So hopefully that new thermistor does the job.

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William
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Re: i3X LCD stays black

Post by William » Wed Dec 28, 2016 3:22 pm

The middle slot is not available if you flashed the firmware for I3-x.Only the 1st and 3rd one available.
And the temperatures for bed and extruder should be "301/0" when you plug jumpers on the two slots.
-Keep your mind and try to test it. :)
-Everything will be fun!-Support all Getech printer.
-You can ask me the questions and I will kindly reply.
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Lamont
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Re: i3X LCD stays black

Post by Lamont » Thu Dec 29, 2016 12:25 pm

Well didnt even bother to solder a new thermistor to hot bed since it wasnt even connected when that maxtemp bed error was shown, with those jumper caps in. I however did test every way and here are the results:

Both thermistors correctly -> Err: MINTEMP
Jumper cap in both sockets -> Err: MAXTEMP BED
Extruder thermistor in hot bed thermistor socket and jumper cap in extruder thermistor socket -> Err: MAXTEMP
Extruder thermistor in correct socket and jumper cap in hot bed thermistor -> Err: MAXTEMP BED
Extruder thermistor in hot bed thermistor socket and hot bed thermistor in extruder thermistor socket -> Err: MINTEMP

In all cases temperatures show solid 0/0. So is this new board bad already and could it be that only those thermistor sockets are bad (both or just hot bed?), because i do have that old board still and maybe i could solder its thermistor sockets to this new board if that would change something? Or is it only the firmware issue? How can i upload it in and bypass that loop?

I checked from Device Manager and there is nothing regarding to gt2560 or anything like that, com port used to be 7 but that has now changed to com10 for some reason. In Devices and Printers there are also nothing for prusa except on bottom of that window where all the undefined (dont know the correct word?) are listed, there is device called "FT232R USB UART" which i assume is the printer but thats it

Cup
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Re: i3X LCD stays black

Post by Cup » Fri Dec 30, 2016 10:44 am

Lamont wrote:Well didnt even bother to solder a new thermistor to hot bed since it wasnt even connected when that maxtemp bed error was shown, with those jumper caps in. I however did test every way and here are the results:

Both thermistors correctly -> Err: MINTEMP
Jumper cap in both sockets -> Err: MAXTEMP BED
Extruder thermistor in hot bed thermistor socket and jumper cap in extruder thermistor socket -> Err: MAXTEMP
Extruder thermistor in correct socket and jumper cap in hot bed thermistor -> Err: MAXTEMP BED
Extruder thermistor in hot bed thermistor socket and hot bed thermistor in extruder thermistor socket -> Err: MINTEMP

In all cases temperatures show solid 0/0. So is this new board bad already and could it be that only those thermistor sockets are bad (both or just hot bed?), because i do have that old board still and maybe i could solder its thermistor sockets to this new board if that would change something? Or is it only the firmware issue? How can i upload it in and bypass that loop?

I checked from Device Manager and there is nothing regarding to gt2560 or anything like that, com port used to be 7 but that has now changed to com10 for some reason. In Devices and Printers there are also nothing for prusa except on bottom of that window where all the undefined (dont know the correct word?) are listed, there is device called "FT232R USB UART" which i assume is the printer but thats it
As long as there is a jumper on one of the two sockets(hotend and extruder thermistor),LCD will show "MAXTEMP".And as long as you plug only one thermistor to the sockets,the LCD will show "MINTEMP"(this was set in the firmware).

I think you just make sure the following points are right,then your board is good:
1.The temp for heatbed and extruder should be both "301/0" with two jumper caps in the two sockets,leaving alone the error.
2.The display should be both "0/0" with all jumpers and thermistors out,still leaving alone the error msg.

Lamont
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Joined: Wed Nov 16, 2016 11:09 pm

Re: i3X LCD stays black

Post by Lamont » Fri Dec 30, 2016 2:22 pm

I think you just make sure the following points are right,then your board is good:
1.The temp for heatbed and extruder should be both "301/0" with two jumper caps in the two sockets,leaving alone the error.
2.The display should be both "0/0" with all jumpers and thermistors out,still leaving alone the error msg.
Thank you for your reply, i sure wish that this new board is good, but i just dont know what the next step in getting it running would be. Only that latter part on those 1 & 2 will come true and no matter what i have tried i havent yet to see a temperature change in lcd, always solid 0/0. I guess it would be a good thing to get the correct fw in, but that loop is pretty mighty opponent and im running out of ideas soon. Would be pretty sad to order yet another new board just to find out the same outcome, no i think there is still something i havent tried, so back to drawing board.

Lamont
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Joined: Wed Nov 16, 2016 11:09 pm

Re: i3X LCD stays black

Post by Lamont » Thu Feb 09, 2017 10:07 am

Well a little update and a new problem (seems that theres always something). Got the new board and figured out those mintemp errors by getting the correct firmware in (credits to some guy in other forum) by resetting the board just before uploading the fw. So both temperatures registered correctly and no errors, but when i tried to move the motors they were dead, so ordered five of those stepper drivers and waited three weeks for them, installed them and everything works :) Got even smaller prints succeed, but now i need to print a part that is 12cmx10cmx5cm with 8 cm hole in the middle and i have tried about 6 times that now and it just doesnt work. Longest was nearly two hours before it looked bad enough to abort the print. Have tried many minor changes, but i think its because those smooth rods that carry the extruder are not straight, if i do the paper align and i set it correctly on four corners i cant even slide the extruder from side to side, so the middle of the bed is higher then the egdes, evengthough i use glass which is pretty straight. So i could have ordered new rods and hope they would be straight, but i ended up ordering the notorious auto leveling sensor which i hope would solve the issue once and for all.

So got the sensor, printed its holder fine, wired everything correctly (soldered the wires so they are good and pins are the same) and onto uploading the firmware. (This new board is REV A+ so didnt have to solder that 3 pin connector and i also did fw changes according to manual correctly). After several attemps got the firmware in and after that nothing hasnt worked. When i turn it on the sensor pin comes down and up two times and stays solid red. Lcd has two rows of those black squares and repetier host gives me that red error box that there is a critical error. Extruder goes slowly and jerky from left to right by itself and one red led is also lit in the board. Tried uploading the fw two more times with same result, the extruder movement stops while it uploads but continues as soon as it has uploaded the fw, so i think it is again all about the fw but i have no glue what i should change when i have done everything as stated in manual.

So any ideas what i should test next?

bang
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Re: i3X LCD stays black

Post by bang » Fri Feb 10, 2017 9:27 am

So you LCD is having two rows of black sqares now?
What about unplugging 3D touch from your board?
And could you computer see the board with USB cable connected?

Lamont
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Joined: Wed Nov 16, 2016 11:09 pm

Re: i3X LCD stays black

Post by Lamont » Fri Feb 10, 2017 9:39 am

So you LCD is having two rows of black sqares now?
What about unplugging 3D touch from your board?
And could you computer see the board with USB cable connected?
Hi, and thank you for your reply, i already scratched that 3d touch because i realize that it would not help if the smooth rods are indeed not straight. But unplug the sensor, connect the z-min endstop and uploading the previous and working fw in did not change anything. Still those two rows of squares in lcd and extruder moves slwly and jerky towards the righs side, for about one click and mm per second, resetting the board or lcd does absolutely nothing, but to get the arduino to upload i always have to reset the board to get it to upload so it has some use. Repetier host says both extruder and bed are about 200c and maxtemp is triggered but they are of course cold and that is just because the incorrect fw.

So is it possible to brick the board by uploading the fw in what was modified according the manual? Is there any other way to wipe the fw? Or is there anything i could try other then buy another one again?

bang
Posts: 402
Joined: Wed Dec 28, 2016 2:12 pm

Re: i3X LCD stays black

Post by bang » Fri Feb 10, 2017 10:05 am

It is so weird.
I haven't heard that uploading the firmware will brick one board.
Generally speaking,only one broken crystal oscillator on the board will it cause the two black squares on LCD...

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