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G2/G2S status check

Posted: Fri Oct 09, 2015 9:16 pm
by Mark
If you have run into problems of the G2/G2S with G29 or something else, you can check the status of the printer as follows.

And do note that: if you do not home the G2/G2S first after you start your printer, you'll get wierd behaves such as crash to the bed!
1. First check the endstop status. Do note that the endstops should be plugged in X Y Z MAX for G2/G2S, not MIN. And the probe endstop, if you use the old firmwrare for plastic G2/G2S, it should be connected to pin1 and pin3; and the new firmware for metal G2 pro/G2S pro, it should be connected to pin1 and pin2 , the same with X Y Zendstops. You can download the firmware here: http://www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopic ... 10&t=17046).
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Homing the printer first, and use M119 to check the endstop status (with probe up). If the printer can not home itself, you can manually trigger the endstop one by one.
002.jpg
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After homing, the status are like this:
X max: triggered
Y max: triggered
Z min: triggered
Z max: triggered
And when you put the nozzle down(with the probe down), like X0,Y0,Z=50, the endstop is as follows:
X max: open
Y max: open
Z min: open
Z max: open
If so, then the endstop status are correct.
2. Manually move the axis one by one, check if all the axes going in the right direction as you told. If not, change the corresponding settings here and ready to hit the emergency stop button if necessary!

#define INVERT_X_DIR true // for Mendel set to false, for Orca setto true
#define INVERT_Y_DIR false // for Mendel set to true, for Orca set to false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR true // for Mendel set to false, for Orca setto true
#define INVERT_E0_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E1_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E2_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E3_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false

3. Set the correct settings of your printer:
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004.jpg
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4. Probe endstop should be on the right side of your spider, and make sure the probe can move smoothly through the hole, or it will not trigger the endstop during the G29 and cause the crash.
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NOTE: for metal G2S, it should be assembled on the left side!
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5. Note the coordinates you get is opposite in sign compare to the one you put into the firmware:

Put down the prob. Manual y move the print head down slowly, place the probe at the center of the print bed.
When you hear the trigger of the endstop, you can get the coordinate on the Repetier host. In my case, it is 【-20.35,11.75,0.3】, you can add it to the following settings.

#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 20.35
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -11.75
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -0.3
//these are the offsets to the probe relative to the extruder tip (Hotend - Probe), these values are very important, especially the Z_PROBE_OFFSET.

Re: G2/G2S status check

Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 8:57 pm
by jamest
I used latest firmware , so pin 1-2 did not seem to work . I will retry but only had g29 working w/pin1-3 . I will test & put probe on right.

Re: G2/G2S status check

Posted: Fri Oct 16, 2015 5:07 pm
by Mark
which firmware do you use? if you use the old firmwrare for plastic G2/G2S, X Y Z should connected to pin1 and pin3; and the new firmware for metal G2 pro/G2S pro, it should be pin1 and pin2 , the same with X Y Zendstops.

Re: G2/G2S status check

Posted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 1:12 am
by jamest
Have not bought metal parts yet but do I need to use new firmware? or stay with what I got, since I have it this far. Got 3 small prints ok quality.
issues I still have :
homing not consistent ( tx) for directions I will go over them & my G2s soon! I do have all mechanical working ..clogs & jams looking to tweek for better easier extruding.
probe got hot melted ring a bit , need metal ring.
Plastic ring cracked need to get metal ring.
nozzle jams... need longer ceramic insert. may help jams keep filament cooler so it is not to soft to be pushed to end of nozzle. Flipped fan to top to cool hot end intake. Helped.
LOL have a few ideas on how to keep top end of hot end cooler & keep heat at bottom end. If filament is warm & soft it tends to twist & bend in any space it has , extending top of hot end w/fan cooling it may be easiest fix. w/ceramic insert.
Still may need to tweek firmware .. again tx I will go over it soon.

Have .3mm nozzle should I get larger ones, different sizes ?
what advise on nozzles can anyone give.
what`s best or easy. need a variety? tx


things I figured a work around :
not sticking to bed.. well youtube saw how use a bit of acetone & the plastic you are going to use , rub plastic on bed to leave a residue of plastic on bed .
to fix cracks & some breaks use pvc glue thick or gorilla glue.
G29 command , seems z min connection on correct pins make a major difference & can change operation.
no matter the issues I am enjoying this, sick puppy lol. Need to keep learning to get more out of this , better prints , less frustration.

Re: G2/G2S status check

Posted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 3:18 pm
by Sherry
jamest wrote:Have not bought metal parts yet but do I need to use new firmware? or stay with what I got, since I have it this far. Got 3 small prints ok quality.
issues I still have :
homing not consistent ( tx) for directions I will go over them & my G2s soon! I do have all mechanical working ..clogs & jams looking to tweek for better easier extruding.
probe got hot melted ring a bit , need metal ring.
Plastic ring cracked need to get metal ring.
nozzle jams... need longer ceramic insert. may help jams keep filament cooler so it is not to soft to be pushed to end of nozzle. Flipped fan to top to cool hot end intake. Helped.
LOL have a few ideas on how to keep top end of hot end cooler & keep heat at bottom end. If filament is warm & soft it tends to twist & bend in any space it has , extending top of hot end w/fan cooling it may be easiest fix. w/ceramic insert.
Still may need to tweek firmware .. again tx I will go over it soon.

Have .3mm nozzle should I get larger ones, different sizes ?
what advise on nozzles can anyone give.
what`s best or easy. need a variety? tx

things I figured a work around :
not sticking to bed.. well youtube saw how use a bit of acetone & the plastic you are going to use , rub plastic on bed to leave a residue of plastic on bed .
to fix cracks & some breaks use pvc glue thick or gorilla glue.
G29 command , seems z min connection on correct pins make a major difference & can change operation.
no matter the issues I am enjoying this, sick puppy lol. Need to keep learning to get more out of this , better prints , less frustration.
hi,just using firmware for plastic G2S. and if there is jam in the nozzle,you can clean it with drill.

Re: G2/G2S status check

Posted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 8:08 pm
by jamest
lol drill breaks, lol try using solder iron to melt out plastic. 1st layer sticking to bed is key , also have dual extruders. have issues with it hitting print or getting in the way .. help. I may have jumped a head a bit in getting a dual extruder for 1st printer..any tips for dual. seems most prints are for single extruder.

Re: G2/G2S status check

Posted: Sat Oct 24, 2015 9:14 am
by jamest
plz send me the file to print parts for g2s spider may need replace soon & I NEED METAL PARTS. but for now I can print? some.

Re: G2/G2S status check

Posted: Mon Oct 26, 2015 5:48 pm
by Mark
"Have not bought metal parts yet but do I need to use new firmware? or stay with what I got, since I have it this far. Got 3 small prints ok quality. "
If you have bought all the metal carriages and the metal spider,then you should use the new firmware for the metal G2S pro.
And you can find the stl files for the plastic G2S here:
http://www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopic ... 10&t=16772

Re: G2/G2S status check

Posted: Sat Dec 05, 2015 2:13 am
by piscanc
Sorry to steal topic, you can move/delete post once noted.

but Pic no.005 (spider/probe) clearly shows another problem.
Loose rod end holders (connection between spider and rods).

First problem here is part design one part has rounded edge, other is sharp. Lucky softer part has the sharp edge.
Once it has some working hours behind it, sharp edge gets eaten away from acceleration forces.This leads to play that is first interpreted as loose bolt.
But after a while this lead to no more room for bolt to go deeper.

Second problem is result of first. Cant re-thigh screw to eliminate rod-end play. Screw is already fully tighten.
If part was bit narrower 1-2mm (so bolt could go bit deeper, not spacing between), there would be more room for the screw once edge gets eaten.

Community has resorted to printing spacers.
this is more quick fix, proper solution would be to match edges on parts.