Geeetech

Agree! Many thanks.

I mean the part cooling fan. There was some talk and youtube videos suggesting only 12v going to 24v fan and requiring jumper. In my experience, it wasnt the voltage problem it was firmware problem that needed to be commented, as combat1 pointed out. You must have figured it out already with your ow...

I measured voltage at fan leads and it is indeed 24volts. For me, combat1 suggestion is all that was needed to change in firmware to gain pwm control. I have wired 2 12v fans in series for fang type cooling now.

Combat your discovery is great. I have been trying to solve why there is no pwm control of the parts cooling fan and you have found it. Many thanks!

Thank you kaktus

This is my first time in Marlin. Under board choices, there is GT2560 RevA and 2560 RevA+. I have GT2560 Rev B which is not an option. Do I use RevA+ for use with BL touch (more similar to revB, yes?) Also, is there a diagram or picture of RevB board anywhere for reference for all connections and wh...

Hmmm...mine failed after maybe 20hrs print time...unlucky, maybe!

This is a note that may help others with the Geeetech A10. My extruder gear was shredding filament and catching leading to under extrusion and obviously unacceptable prints. First, check that your brass tooth gear attached to the extruder motor did not loosen and drop - this happened early on becaus...

I recommend turing all your bed level wheels clockwise to tighten all springs and make bed lowest possible before you bring nozzle over to level - this will help make sure you do not scratch bed. Then loosen them as needed to set bed height. I found i needed to adjust z axis limit switch close to z ...

Try using skirt around print first. Skirt is several hoops to prime nozzle flow before starting print. Use 3, 4, 5 hoops...if you are not laying down good line by the end of skirt cancel print and try again with different settings. This way, you are not wasting plastic and getting frustrated with ba...