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Troubleshooting Guide to 24 Common 3D Printing Problems| Part 1

Fused Filament Fabrication Frustrations? Read our 3D printing troubleshooting guide to most common 3D printing problems and their solutions.

It’s amazing what your 3D printer can produce. But we’ve all had those infuriating moments when, despite everything, a seemingly simple model just refuses to print successfully.

You’ve checked the model, seen countless others make it without issue, but try as you might it just won’t print. What is it that keeps going wrong?

Here at ALL3DP, we’ve had our fair share of print failures. But the upside to those failures is that we’ve become finely tuned to recognizing and solving many common 3D printing problems.

Direct from our 3D printer troubleshooting experience, we’ve collected together 24 of the most common 3D printing problems and replicated them here.

This article will help you to quickly diagnose your 3D printing issues, and find the solution with our 3D printer troubleshooting guide. Discover how and when these 3D printing problems occur, and the steps you can take to avoid them in future.

3D Printing Problems #1: Blocked Bowden Nozzle

What’s the 3D Printing Problem?

You initiate a print job but whatever you try, nothing comes out of the nozzle. Extracting the filament and reinserting doesn’t work.

What’s Causing the 3D Printing Problem?

A small piece of filament has been left behind in the nozzle after changing spools, often because the filament has snapped off at the end. When the new filament is loaded, the piece of old filament that is left in the nozzle doesn’t allow the new filament to be pushed through.

Alternatively, a build up of molten plastic in the end of the nozzle has hardened and will need manual removal. Specialist, cheap or old filaments are a common cause.

3D Printing Troubleshooting: Blocked Bowden Nozzle

  1. Unblock with a needle. If you’re lucky then unblocking can be a quick and easy process. Start by removing the filament. Then using the control panel select the “heat up nozzle” setting and increase to the melting point of the stuck filament. In the case of the Ultimaker 2 go to Maintenance > Heat Up nozzle. For PLA set the temperature to 220 C. Once the nozzle reaches the correct temperature, use a small pin to clear the hole (being careful not to burn your fingers). If your nozzle is 0.4mm then you need a pin that is smaller; an airbrush cleaning kit works perfectly. It’s also worth getting a brass cleaning brush to remove any filament build-up on and around the nozzle.
  2. Push old filament through. If you find that the nozzle is still blocked then you may be able to push the filament through with another bit of filament. Start by removing the filament as before and then remove the feeder tube from the print head. Heat up the hot end to 220 C for PLA and then using another piece of filament push this through from the top to try to force the stuck filament in the nozzle out. Usually if new filament hasn’t succeeded in unblocking then the extra pressure you can exert by hand might just do the job. However don’t push to hard as you’ll bend the horizontal printer rods.
    Once the end clears use a needle to push through the nozzle and a brush to clean any filament excess.
  3. Dismantle and rebuild the hotend. In extreme cases when the nozzle remains blocked, you’ll need to do a little surgery and dismantle the hot end. If you’ve never done this before then it’s a good idea to make notes and take photographs so you know where everything fits when you reassemble. Start by removing the filament, then check your printer’s manual to see exactly how to dismantle the hot end.

3D Printing Problem Checklist: Blocked Bowden Nozzle

  1. Heat the nozzle and clean with a needle and brass cleaning brush
  2. Remove the feeder tube and try pushing the filament through with another piece of filament
  3. Dismantle the hot end and see if you can extract the filament blockage

3D Printing Problems #2: Broken Infill

What’s the 3D Printing Problem?

The internal structure of your print is missing or broken.

What’s Causing this 3D Printing Problem?

There are a number of reasons for the misprinting of the internal structure. The most common is incorrect settings within the slicing software, but it can also be due to a slightly blocked nozzle.

3D Printing Troubleshooting: Broken Infill

  1. Check the Fill density. In your slicing software check the infill density. A value of around 20% is normal; any less than this and you’re likely to have issues. For larger prints you may want to increase this to ensure that the model has enough support.
  2. Infill Speed. The speed at which the infill is printed can have a major effect on the quality of the structure. If the infill is looking week then decrease the infill print speed.
  3. Change the pattern. Most slicing software enables you to change the internal structure. You can have a grid pattern, or triangle, honeycomb, and more. Try selecting a different option.
  4. Check your nozzle. It might be that there is a slight blockage in the nozzle. While the blockage doesn’t effect the printing of the thicker exterior walls, because there is less flow for the internal structure the filament is getting caught.

3D Printing Problem Checklist: Broken Infill

  1. Check and adjust the Fill density
  2. Decrease the Infill Speed
  3. Try a different infill pattern
  4. Check your nozzle for blockages

3D Printing Problems #3: Cracks In Tall Objects

What’s the 3D Printing Problem?

There are cracks on the sides, especially on taller models. This can be one of the most surprising issues in 3D Printing as it tends to manifest itself in larger prints, and usually whilst you’re not looking.

What’s Causing this 3D Printing Problem?

In higher layers, the material cools faster, because the heat from the heated print bed doesn’t reach that high. Because of this, adhesion in the upper layers is lower.

3D Printing Troubleshooting: Cracks In Tall Objects

  1. Extruder temperature. Start by increasing the extruder temperature; a good start would be to increase it by 10ºC. On the side of your filament box you’ll see the working hot end temperatures, try to keep the temperature adjustment within these values.
  2. Fan direction and speed. Double check your fans, make sure that they’re on and aimed at the model. If they are try reducing their speed.

3D Printing Problem Checklist: Cracks In Tall Objects

  1. Check the hot end temperature and raise at 10-degree intervals
  2. Check the position and speed of the cooling fans

3D Printing Problems #4: Elephant Foot

What’s the 3D Printing Problem?

The base of the model is slightly bulging outwards, otherwise known as “elephant foot”

What’s Causing this 3D Printing Problem?

This ungainly effect can also be caused by the weight of the rest of the model pressing down the first layers when the lower layers haven’t had time to cool back into a solid – particularly when your printer has a heated bed.

3D Printing Troubleshooting: Elephant Foot

  1. The right balance. To stop elephant foot appearing in your 3D prints the base layers of the model need to be cooled sufficiently so that they can support the structure above, but if you apply too much cooling to the base layers you can create warping. Getting the balance right can be tricky, start by lowering the temperature of the print platform by intervals of 5 degrees, (within +/- 20 degrees of the recommended temperature). If your  Bottom / Top Thickness is set to 0.6mm then start the fan after the fan at a slightly lower height.
  2. A level base. More often than not the majority of print issues can be traced back to the level of the print platform. Each printer has a slightly different technique for print platform leveling. Start by using your printers manufacturers recommended procedure. Then print a calibration cube and just watch how the filament is laid down. From printing of the cube you should be able to see if the filament is being laid down evenly, if the nozzle is too close to the print platform and scraping through the molten filament or too high and causing the filament to blob.
  3. Raise the nozzle. Just raising the height of the nozzle slightly can often help, but be careful too high and it won’t stick to the platform.
  4. Chamfer the base. If all else fails then another option is to chamfer the base of your model. Of course, this is only possible if you have either designed the model yourself or you have access to the original file. Start with a 5mm and 45º chamfer, and experiment to get the best result.

3D Printing Problem Checklist: Elephant Foot

  1. Balance print platform temperature and fan speed
  2. Level the print platform
  3. Check the nozzle height
  4. Chamfer the model base

3D Printing Problems #5: Extrusion Temperature Too High

What’s the 3D Printing Problem?

Filament is surprisingly resilient to all types of misconfiguration, including overheating of the hot end. It’s for this reason of resilience that noticing your hot end is too hot isn’t always as easy as you’d think it would be. The effects can be as obvious as discolored filament; in our sample here the dark line that appears half way up 3D Benchy is an obvious sign of scorching where the filament has burnt. This scorching can just appear as slight discoloration or darkening which is less obvious than the dark line above.

Another sign can be the appearance of uneven layers; when you take a closer look you can see that it’s not so much uneven as melted. Again our model shows this subtly on the cabin, and to a far greater effect on the chimney where it starts to look a little like wax running down a melted candle.

Overheating filament can also cause huge issues with accuracy especially when it comes to threadscrew holes. Finding that some holes are correct and others are too small is often an initial sign that the temperature may well be a little too high.

What’s Causing this 3D Printing Problem?

Normally, having too hot a hot end or overheating is an easy fix. The hot end is too hot so you need to cool it down. There needs to be a fine balance between melting the filament so that it will flow, and enabling the filament to solidify quickly so that the next layer can be applied to a solid surface. Before you go adjusting the temperature however, first make sure that you have loaded the correct material settings for your 3D printer (as part of the filament loading process). If you have, then it could be that you need to adjust the temperature just a touch.

3D Printing Troubleshooting: Extruder Temperature Too High

  1. Check the material settings. This might seem obvious, but just double check that you’ve given the printer the correct details about the material. The latest filament temperatures range from between 180 – 260ºC or thereabout, so it’s surprising how easy it is to get this wrong.
  2. Decrease the hot end temperature. In the printer or software settings decrease the hot end temperature. Depending on the severity of the overheating, drop the temperature in 5ºC intervals.
  3. Speed up the print. If the filament isn’t being discoloured then you could try speeding up the print speed.
  4. Check the fans. Check that the cooling fans are directed at the hot end. Check that they’re in the right position and if possible boost their speed to increase airflow over the cooling filament.

3D Printing Problem Checklist: Extruder Temperature Too High

  1. Check the material settings.
  2. Decrease the hot end temperature.
  3. Speed up the print.
  4. Check the fan position.

3D Printing Problems #6: Gaps between Infill and Outer Wall

What’s the 3D Printing Problem?

When you look at the top or bottom of the print, you can see a slight gap between the infill and the outer perimeter walls.

What’s Causing this 3D Printing Problem?

Gaps between the perimeter and top layers used to be a common problem, but as printer accuracy has improved and the support for different materials extends, it’s now less of an issue than it was.

However the new wave of advanced materials are far less forgiving than the likes of PLA and ABS, and we’re starting to see a slight resurgence of the problem.
Gaps are caused by the filament used for the infill and outer walls not quite meeting bonding and is a relatively easy fix.

The most obvious cause of the problem is that the infill overlap is not set, or it’s set to “0”. This means that the slicing software is actually telling the printer not to allow the two parts of the print to meet.

Another issue could be the order in which you have set the infill and outer perimeters to be printed. If you’re printing the perimeter first for a high-quality print then there is generally little or no overlap which can again cause the problem.

3D Printing Troubleshooting: Gaps between Infill and Outer Wall

  1. Check the infill overlap. This is by far the most common issue and is really easy to resolve. In your slicing software locate the ‘Infill Overlap’ option and increase the value.
    • In Cura by default this is set to 15% so raise it to 30%.
    • In Simplify3D you’ll find the option in ‘Edit Process Settings > Infill > Outline Overlap’ again increase the value. This setting is directly linked to the extrusion width, so the % value will be a % of whatever you’re extrusion width is. When adjusting this setting always keep it below 50% or you’ll start to see the effects of the overlap in the outer perimeters of your print.
  2. Printing infill before the perimeter. If you’re printing with a relatively thin outer wall the structure of the infill can show through. If this happens then you can switch the order by which the printer lays down the infill and perimeter layers. For example, in Cura check to see if you have ‘Infill prints after perimeters’ ticked.
  3. Increase Hot end temperature. Some of the latest advanced materials such as XT-CF20 are a little less forgiving when it comes to spread due to the carbon fibres that make up part of their structure. When printing with these materials you may find that a slight 5-10º increase in hotend temperature makes all the difference.
  4. Slow it down. Okay, so you may be in a rush to get the printout, but printing at higher speeds can cause all sorts of issues if the printer isn’t perfectly calibrated. If you need to print quick you can still avoid gaps by decreasing the speed of the top layer.

3D Printing Problem Checklist: Gaps between Infill and Outer Wall

  1. Check the infill overlap.
  2. Printing infill before the perimeter.
  3. Increase Hot end temperature.
  4. Slow it down.

3D Printing Problems #7: Ghosting of the Internal Structure

What’s the 3D Printing Problem?

The final print looks fine but an outline of the internal support structure can be seen through the walls of the print.

What’s Causing this 3D Printing Problem?

The issue with ghosting happens due to the infill encroaching into the path of the perimeter. This effect is most visible when your print has thin walls. The problems is caused by the infill structure overlapping with the perimeter line as it’s being laid down. Although this ghosting is an issue it’s actually an important part of the printing process, as it helps the internal structure bond effectively to the external walls. Luckily it’s very easy to overcome.

Another cause of ghosting can be that you have set an incorrect wall thickness in relation to the size of nozzle that you’re using. In normal print conditions the size of the nozzle should be directly related to the nozzle size, so if you have a 0.4mm nozzle then the wall thickness should be a multiple of this, either 0.4, 0.8, 0.12 and so forth.

3D Printing Troubleshooting: Ghosting of the Internal Structure

  1. Check the shell thickness. Make sure that the value you have selected for the shell thickness is a multiple of the nozzle size.
  2. Increase the shell thickness. The easiest solution is to increase the shell thickness. By doubling the size it should cover any overlap caused by the infill.
  3. Use Infill after perimeters. Most slicing software will enable you to activate Infill prints after perimeters.
    • In Cura open up the ‘Expert Settings’ and under the Infill section tick the box next to ‘Infill prints after perimeters’
    • In Simply3D Click ‘Edit Process Settings’ then select ‘Layer’ and under ‘Layer Settings’ select ‘Outside-in’ next to the ‘Outline Direction’.
  4. Check print platform. Check around the model and if you see that the effect is more prevalent on one side than the other, the effect could be due to calibration. If so run through the usual calibration process.
  5. Use it to your advantage. Depending on the type of model that you’re printing you can use the internal and shell printing order to your advantage. When you want a high-quality print with a good surface finish where the actual strength of the model isn’t important, select print from the Outside-in. If however the strength of the print is paramount then select Print from in Inside-Out and double the wall thickness. The reason for the difference in strength is that when you print from the Outside-in you eliminate the small amount of overlap that causes the ghosting issue, but this also means that the actual structure won’t create the same strength of bond between the internal and external structure due to the lack of overlap.

3D Printing Problem Checklist: Ghosting of the Internal Structure

  1. Check the shell thickness.
  2. Increase the wall thickness.
  3. Use Infill after perimeters.
  4. Check print platform and recalibrate if necessary.
  5. Use it to your advantage.

3D Printing Problems #8: Layer Misalignment

What’s the 3D Printing Problem?

Some layers in the middle of the objects have shifted.

What’s Causing this 3D Printing Problem?

The printer belts aren’t well tightened. The top plate isn’t fastened and wobbles around independent of the bottom plate. One of the rods in the Z axis is not perfectly straight.

3D Printing Troubleshooting: Layer Misalignment

  1. Check the belts. Start by checking each of the belts are tight but not over tight. You should feel a little resistance from the two belts as you pinch them together. If you find that the top section of the belt is tighter than the bottom then this is a sure fire sign that they need a tweak and tighten.
  2. Check the top plate. Check the top plate and all rods and attachments at the top of the printer and make sure everything is tight and aligned.
  3. Check the Z axis rods. Many printers use threaded rods rather than lead screws and although these do the job they do have a tendency to bend over time. Don’t worry about dismantling your printer to see if they’re straight, simply use the software such as ‘Printrun’ to move the print head up or down. If one of the Z axis rods is bent you’ll instantly see. Unfortunately, it’s almost impossible to accurately straighten a rod once it’s bent, but on the upside, it’s a good excuse to replace the old threaded rods for lead screws.

3D Printing Problem Checklist: Layer Misalignment

  1. Check the tension in the belts
  2. Check there’s no movement in the top plate
  3. Make sure the Z axis rods are straight

Via all3dp.

LOL!! The “USS Enterprise Ultimate Collection is Coming. You can 3D Print All of the Ships Yourself.

Have you ever wanted your own USS Enterprise Ultimate Collection of Star Trek ships to put on proud display in your home? Your wish has been answered.

Sharpen your ears, Spock fans. For all you “enterprising” Star Trek fans out there, you’ll be over the moons of Nimbus III to find out that files of every version of the USS Enterprise are now available to 3D print.

Ex Games Artist and 3D printing wizard Alexei Bruton has already released just one 3D variant of the USS Enterprise. However, he’s now back and this time he’s launched a whole fleet of 16 ships in total.

Bruton is calling this fleet the “USS Enterprise Ultimate Collection.” Now you can simply head over to the gallery and you’ll be able to download and 3D print all of the ships yourself.

However, keep in mind that most of the ships are rather small which may have been done so they’re are all in proportion. This does mean that you may want to scale them up. Also, remember that 3D printing technology is not yet advanced enough to create a real life size ship.

Download and Print the USS Enterprise Ultimate Collection

If you’re already sold and want to try and build your own fleet, then simply visit either MyMiniFactory or Thingiverse. All files can be found for free.

As well as this fleet, there will soon be an additional stand to download. Look out for this large stand which can be used to hold up all of the ships. You can then very easily create your own 3D printed Star Trek display.

Now you can go where no 3D printer has been before. Simply download the USS Enterprise Ultimate Collection and you’ll be sure to live long and prosper.

2017 Happy Chinese Lunar New Year

In the Chinese lunar calendar, Year 2017 is the year of the rooster – a very proud and confident bird that carries itself with dignity. May all this necessary qualities help you to emerge victorious every time!
We are at the ending point of this year, I wish to take this opportunity to thank you all for your support in 2016.May you continue to trust and rely on our Company in the comming years.

new year coupon

New Year Coupon Code:   XIN NIAN KUAI LE

Kindly be informed that due to the Spring Festival (Chinese Lunar New Year), we will have the holiday from Jan. 26th to Feb.5th.
The shipping will be suspended from Jan. 23th to Feb 5th. Orders placed during this time will be arranged from Feb. 6th.

For tech support, make sure you have read through our user manuals. Or you can download this trouble-shooting guide to check the solutions.

For video tutorials, please visit our YouTube

We apologize for any inconvenience caused and appreciate your patience during this time.

Xin nian kuai le
新年快乐

An Easy Experience! Public Beta for EasyPrint

No deny that nowadays 3D printing has seen its way in various aspects of our life and is making a big difference! Sometimes you just can’t help feeling amazed at your own creative and ultra-practical works that have been inspired by 3D printing. However, most 3D printing hobbyists, either newbies or experts, may find it inconvenient to handle those annoyingly complicated operation procedures when using traditional 3D printing software. Here is where EasyPrint comes in.

EasyPrint is a piece of standard 3D printing software, intuitive, easy-to-manage and specially engineered for Geeetech printers and demystifying the 3D printing tech. In addition, it can also support most other 3D printers.

With the aim of providing users with top-notch printing services, Geeetech is now launching a public beta for this software.

EasyPrint has an intuitive and user-friendly interface, enabling users to get a mastery of its features in a short period of time. With just a few steps, this user-oriented software allows both newbies and experts to bring your 3D models into life, experiencing the marvelous layer visualization and the straight-forward control over the printing process.

Load

Just choose the 3D models you’ve designed uniquely or downloaded from free websites (such as thingivese, YouMagine, etc.) and drag them onto the virtual printing platform of the software interface.

Settings

Start in [quick] mode for rapid onboarding, where you just need click the [apply] and [ok] buttons to start your printing. This simple operation mode provides you with indescribable joys to witness the rapid transformation from an abstract 3D model to a tangible object, completely giving your imagination free reign and satisfying your curiosity about 3D printing world.

For seasoned users wanting to exert finer control over the overall print quality, the [custom] mode is definitely your optimal choice. Here you can set different parameters for your printing, including accuracy, skirt, retraction, infill, filament, speed and support. (Please make reference to user manual for detailed instructions.)

All these detailed print settings make it satisfactorily possible for you to bring out a custom article with strong structures and smooth finish.

Slicer

After finishing the print settings, you just need to click the [slicer] menu. EasyPrint will slice the model within several seconds. You will enjoy a marvelous view of the layers, which stand for the moving paths of the nozzle.

Please click the [Run job] button to start the amazing printing journey! Now an eye-popping sight of how the thin materials would melt and fast form a lively object layer by layer will definitely amaze YOU!

Please join our public beta to have an easy and thrilling printing experience and make EasyPrint really practical and considerate for all the 3D printing hobbyists! You can —-

Download: EasyPrint (EasyPrint is only compatible with windows system. We will keep on updating EasyPrint. Please stay tuned~)

Learn more: Geeetech prepares a detailed user manual of EasyPrint for you to achieve satisfactory printouts!

Leave us your feedback or constructive advice on EasyPrint by  joining the Facebook public test group for EasyPrint 3D printing software. The constructiveness of comments will be decided by making reference to the number of LIKES you receive.

Thank you for your engagement!

 We’ve prepared abundant prizes for YOU!

click the following links:

Prize No.1: 5 filaments (PLA/ABS) for top 5 constructive advisers on EasyPrint

Prize No.2: Geeetech 3DTouch auto bed leveling sensor for 3D printer (30)

Prize No.3:  Geeetech homepage coupons of $30!! (65)

You just cannot miss!!

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20 Things to Make with a 3D Printer for Your Office

Here are some simple suggestions for making the most of your office desk. Feel free to share any of your ideas in the comments!

Without further ado, here are 20 cool things to make with a 3D printer for your office:

1. Whale Desk Organiser

Who’s that for? Anyone who’s resentful of the fact that they have to grow up and work can print this little whale to remind them of their childhood happiness. Check out the design on Formsfield.

2. Name Plate Pen Holder

What’s that? If you want to really seem professional then having your name hold up your pens and pencils is surely the best way to be noticed. Check out the design on Thingiverse.

3. Cat Phone Holder

Why do I need that? You probably don’t need this holder, but if you find you want to add some personality to your desk, or if you’re crazy into cats, then this could be for you. Find the design on Pinshape.

4. Office Desk Chair

Who is this for? Anyone with a large budget will be interested in 3D printing their own personalised desk chair. Otherwise, the rest of us will have to dream about the comfort of these chairs. Check out the design on GrabCAD.

5. Push Pin Monster

Why do I need this? This super cute monster is the best way to avoid pricking your fingers on pins. You can find this design on 3DShook. A cool things to 3D print for your desktop.

6. Giant Paperclip

What’s this for? The designer of this giant paperclip claims it “actually works.” If you’re feeling skeptical but want to check out the design anyway, head to Thingiverse.

7. Cable Catcher

Why do I need this? If your cables are always in a tangle, then this smart little idea will help make sure everything is sorted out properly so you don’t have to spend hours untangling those annoying leads. Find this design on Thingiverse.

8. Pentos Pen Holder

What does this do? The designer said: “This little guy will do a great job carrying your pen. However we warn you that’s all he does.” If you’re in need of a pen holder check the design out here.

9. Keyboard Feet

Why do I need this? If you have somehow managed to break the feet on your keyboard, you may find that the wonkiness is driving you crazy. These new feet can help make sure your typing is uninterrupted. Find the design here.

10. Crocodile Letter Opener

What is this? This cheeky little snapper is the best way to open your post! Download the design from Autodesk and you will have an easy way to make sure you don’t ruin your letters, or just something cool to look at.

11. Pretty Photo Frame

Why do I need this? If you’re having a hard time motivating yourself, then perhaps a picture of your family, friends or cat is the best way to remind you why you’re working so hard. This pretty frame is downloadable from My Mini Factory.

12. Flower Push Pins

Why do I need this? If you want your pin board looking pretty, then this is the best way to do it! These little flower push pins are simple yet work brilliantly! The designer said: “A fun way to grab someone’s attention when you’re not able to point out the note you left. You can decorate around your desk.” Check out the design on 3DCults.

13. Whallo Tape Dispenser

What’s this for? If you really want to continue with the theme of whales in your office, then printing this whale tape dispenser is a great idea! You can find the design on 3DShook. It’s just one of the cool things to 3D print for your home office.

14. Headphones Hanger

Why do I need this? Having a place to keep your headphones is a great idea if you always end up tangling the wires! With a hanger, they’ll be instantly accessible and untangled! Check out the design on Thingiverse.

15. Evo Collection Mug

What is this? The designer created this piece as part of a collection, they said: “Our aim is to create simple but functional objects using a basic and popular IKEA Pokal Glass.” If you fancy a quirky office mug, check out the design on My Mini Factory.

16. Cable Clip

Why do I need this? This design is yet another simple solution to the problem of tangled wires. This 3D print will help keep your space organised! You can find this design on 3DShare.

17. Memomac

What’s that? If you need somewhere to store your memos in an orderly fashion, then look no further! This Memomac is yet another way to keep your desk tidy. Check out the design here.

18. Tree Origin Bookmark

Why should I use this? If you are always losing your page then a book mark is the best way to help keep track. A simple idea and a simple design work brilliantly here, check it out on Thingiverse.

19. Portable Business Card Holder

Why do I need this? Handing over a dog-eared business card is not likely to win you any points, so make sure that your name is kept pristine with a portable business card holder. You can find this simple design on Cults3D.

20. Fibonacci Office Organiser

What’s that? This brilliantly simplistic design will give you a place to keep all of your most useful home office stationery. Check out the design on Thingiverse.

Hope our readers will get some interesting and practical gadgets from today’s article!

Via all3dp.

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19 DIY Lamp Shade (Most for Free)

You know what 3D printing is really good for? DIY lamp shades, that’s what. Here’s a selection of free & premium designs to 3D print yourself.

Here at ALL3DP, one of our favorite applications for 3D printing is custom lamp designs to light up the darkness.

In fact, digging around on specialist content repositories like Cults 3D, you can find some stunning examples of DIY lamp shades.

Presented below is a selection of the best designs. Please note that the majority of these models are free to download, except where otherwise noted for premium models.

DIY Lamp Shade #1: M&O Paris lamp

This beautiful lamp was inspired by the most famous building in Paris, the Eiffel Tower. Designed and engineered by Samuel N. Bernier, a Canadian industrial designer, this item can be easily produced using any conventional desktop 3D printer. It’s printed in several pieces however, so some assembly is required.

DIY Lamp Shade #2: Lump

The low-poly Lump is a rather endearing lamp shade. It’s pretty minimalist, granted, but it’s also incredibly easy to fabricate on a 3D printer. You won’t need any supports or rafts, so there’s no fuss or muss. Make a couple of these in any color you like, and have an instant upgrade to any light fitting in your house.

DIY Lamp Shade #3: LampiON Lamp Shade

The LampiON lamp shade is a premium design, retailing for 15 euro, which is made of two separate parts modelled on a simple hexagonal grid. You can either use one or both parts in a single construct, layering one over the other, depending on your personal style. It looks cool, for example, if you print the “web” is a different color.

DIY Lamp Shade #4: Ribone Cross One

From award winning designer Martin Žampach, Ribone Cross One is a striking design of intersecting lines. Combine this lamp shade with a dimmer switch, and it gives off a pulsing optical illusion when the lights are turned on. This premium design retails for 10 euro.

DIY Lamp Shade #5: The Pumpkin Lamp

The Pumpkin Lamp, a.k.a. “La Citrouille D’Omar”, is a novelty item perhaps best saved for the Halloween season (unless you’re one of those folks with a pale complexion for whom it’s Halloween all year long). Print off several and pair them up with green light cables, and enjoy your light-up pumpkin patch.

DIY Lamp Shade #6: Artichoke Lamp

Inspired by another vegetable, this time the leaves of an artichoke, this beautiful lamp shade would make a nice addition for the home or office. You can use any standard hanging light cord and a low temp bulb.

DIY Lamp Shade #7: SMF.01

The SMF.01 is an elegant floor lamp assembled from 3D printable components plus wood strips and a light cord with light bulb socket. The STL files retail for 6 euro, and you’ll have to supply the rest of the components yourself. It’s a neat idea, to make your own furniture. In fact, that’s exactly what SMF stands for — Self Made Furniture.

DIY Lamp Shade#8: Valeria Lamp

The Valeria lamp is a very sophisticated design. So sophisticated, in fact, it wouldn’t look amiss in the library of Ron Burgundy, with its mahogany shelves filled with leather books. The small dimensions of Valeria make it most useful as a table lamp, and it’s easy to assemble and print. This premium model retails for 3.99 euro.

DIY Lamp Shade #9: Night Light

The Night Light emits a warm reassuring glow, perfect for keeping nightmares at bay. And check out its sibling, the Spot Light, if you’d prefer some disco-flavored shenanigans with your interior lighting.

DIY Lamp Shade#10: Iceberg Lamp Shade

Like the Lump, the Iceberg is a DIY lamp shade with a low-poly design, but this item is more visually ambitious. Its angles have mutated and grown to an intimidating size. It should still be relatively easy to print, though. The Iceberg is a premium design that retails for 15 euro.

DIY Lamp Shade #11: Anna Flower Light

The Anna Flower Light is truly a labor of love — designer Gordon LaPlante says he made it “for my love and the co-founder of gCreate, Anna Lee”. The light resembles a hanging flower and projects light evenly across the room, while also providing ample down light.

DIY Lamp Shade #12: Z-Lamp

Another lamp from designer Helder Santos — this time offered via the collective EUMAKERS umbrella — and we’re getting another strong Ron Burgundy vibe from the Z-Lamp. Reasonably certain that Mr. Santos is a fan of the “Anchorman” films… and there’s absolutely no shame in that!

DIY Lamp Shade #13: Ribone Collection

The Ribone takes its inspiration from the visual aestheic of heat-sinks on industrial lamps or LED bulbs. And hey, it looks positively super. This premium model retails for 10 euro.

DIY Lamp Shade #14: LUX Lamp

According to its designer, the LUX lamp “celebrates the light in the darkest time of the year, winter.” It was designed and printed during the Lux Helsinki light festival in January this year. This truly remarkable design is a premium model and can be yours for just 1 euro.

DIY Lamp Shade #15: Clasp

You won’t get much shade from the Clasp, but it’s a smart little ornament nonetheless. A disembodied hand has a tight grip on the light bulb, whilst the power cord and switch trails out just below the wrist. The cool thing about this design is its versatility; it can also be attached to a wall socket and keep ahold of your phone while it’s charging.

DIY Lamp Shade #16: Monkey and Bunny Voronoi Lamps

These voronoi lamps are pretty dazzling, and you’ll want to dims the lights elsewhere in the room to see the full effect. Available as either “monkey” or “bunny“, the shades have been designed to cast some delightful shadows on the walls. Designer mingshiuan has actually created a whole series of lamps in this style, like a skull or a heart, and it’s definitely worth checking out the whole series.

DIY Lamp Shade #17: Ghost Lightclip

Convert the LED light on your smartphone into a spooooky desk lamp with the Ghost, part of the Lightclip series from Lab02. Other Lightclips include a Ninja Ghost and a Batman Bat-signal. These designs are great, but unfortunately they’re compatible with iPhone 5 / 5s and iPhone 4 / 4s only. Some adjustment of the STL files might be necessary!

DIY Lamp Shade #18: Lampe

The Lampe is a great functional print from designer extraordinaire Agustin Flowalistik. You may have encountered his low-poly Pokemon, but now he’s branching out into practical designs with a stylish flourish. With accessibility in mind, no screws or glue are required to assemble the Lampe, and it can be printed on any printer with a 120 x 120 x 120 mm printing surface (heated bed not necessary if using PLA).

DIY Lamp Shade #19: Square LED Lamp

One more roll of the dice from Helder Santos, and he’s taking a step back from the “Anchorman” influence for a more retrofuturistic design. This is a simple, elegant LED lamp designed to house a 60 cm 12V LED strip. It features a battery compartment, so it can be mounted without needing a power socket nearby. The Square can be 3D printed without supports, and doesn’t require glue or screws to be assembled.

via all3dp.